Dibs_h

Well had a look in\around the bottom of the battery tray and there was barely 1/2 inch of water in there. Both drains\grommets were draining freely. Even used a SnakeCam to have really good look and no blockage\silt or anything. Undid the coolant tank and removed the one under the battery tray anyway - will do the other one, next time it's on a lift. No wiser really as to how water got into the ECU box. Looking at the design of the grommet - there is absolutely no way it could prevent any fumes from going up into the Plenum. Can post up a picture of the one I removed, if someone's interested. Dibs

Just been wondering how on earth water would get in the ECU box. Googling (& searching the forum) brought up the rubber grommets\bungs under the battery tray & servo - so will be having a look this evening to see how much water is sitting above those, with a view to removing the bungs\grommets to save the issue from re-occurring.

Was thinking about that last night, would end up moving the problem from 1 place to another? Did great difficulty removing the cowl (the trim at the bottom of the screen). Just ended up working around it. Any ideas how one does remove it? Cheers Dibs

Opened up the ECU box and guess what - about 1/2 inch of water in the bottom with the relays piss wet thru. Dried it all out, with hopefully no more issues. Annoying thing is that the box and cover have no cracks and the bolts\screws were pretty tight, so Lord knows how the water got in there. Dibs

Last night leaving a carpark the car felt like it had stalled - that sort of bang\judder - it didn't tho. Looking at the dash the ESP light was solid, pushing the button didn't do anything and trying to get it above 2000rpm - the engine light would flash. Parked up and switched the car off. Put the key back in and expecting a few noises and then silence - a weird noise could be heard. Later I found out that the noise is the ABS pump, sort of coming on\off. Removed the key - blipped the fob to lock and then unlock, put the key back in the ignition and the weird ABS pump noise could still be heard & it didn't stop. At which point, I thought sod it and started the car. No ESP light and it revved normally - no engine light and no weird ABS pump noise either. Getting home, plugged in VCDS and the following came up, Monday,12,September,2011,23:34:47:46626 VCDS Version: Release 10.6.4 Address 03: ABS Brakes Labels: 8E0-614-517.lbl Control Module Part Number: 8E0 614 517 Component and/or Version: ABS/ESP front 3429 Software Coding: 04255 Work Shop Code: WSC 06435 VCID: E5CBCE9E55F1 1 Fault Found: 18258 - Powertrain Data Bus: Missing Message from ECU P1850 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent No other error codes anywhere else. Cleared it and it drove into work fine. Anyone have any thoughts? The one thing I will be doing this evening is popping the ECU cover and checking for water in the bottom as it happened some time ago (the fans were staying on) and there was around half an inch of water in the bottom. Replaced one of the relays as the contacts were corroded. IIRC, one of the relays under the ECU is the ECU relay, so wondering whether that may be wet or have corroded contacts and it's time to replace. Cheers Dibs

I was under the impression that PD engines should not be run on Bio unless there is a sticker somewhere in the boot (IIRC) confirming that the car was ordered and built to run on Bio. The difference in the build is not available as a retrofit kit to the best of my knowledge. I take it your's isn't a PD?

Got it sorted. You you have to remove the timing case (sump & eng mount as well). Thankfully it tapped out. Does anyone know to Torque the auxiliary belt guide pulley bolt should be tightened to? No mention of it in the Haynes.

I'm assuming the 1.2 (3 cylinder engine) is used in the Polo IV and Fabia 1\2. I've had the bolt that holds the auxiliary belt guide pulley on, shear. Now it looks like I'll have to remove the timing case cover (sump off 1st) and pray that the remainder comes out - as it appears to be an alloy block. The whole the bolt goes into is a blind hole. Any tips\advice - unfortunately there isn't much choice in the matter. Cheers Dibs

Cheers Benjie - update: Took the car round to my tame VAG\VCDS guru and had the car plugged in. There were 2 fault codes - one relating to negative boost pressure (or thereabouts). The chap scratched his head for a moment and asked whether I'd taken the airbox out. Pulled off the concertina rectangular hose\thingy and shoved his hand near the turbo and 60 secs later announces it's fixed and that I take it for a spin. Turning the 1st corner, it was back to normal. Parked back up and asked him what was the problem. He laughed and told me that I'd knocked off one of the vacuum pipes on the N75 valve whilst taking off\putting on the airbox. He reset the the AVS whilst I was there - so thankfully no cost fix. I'll have to be a little more careful next time.

I've had my 53 plate 130 Sport since last Oct and can't really fault it, pulls like a train compared to the 80 Tdi it replaced. Until yesterday. It's on AVS - and as the Service! msg had been on for about 2 weeks - I did the service yesterday. All genuine parts\oil from Audi - service indicator hasn't been reset, hopefully do that today. Took it out and nearly came a cropper turning right at a few junctions. Whereas before it pulled from around 1k, now almost like a non-turbo car. At first I wondered whether I'd tightened up the jubilee clip on the on the intake hose (after the MAF) - so took out the filter, air box, and re-did it - even took off the MAF connector, cleaned the connections. Took the car for a spin again - better, pulling better from 2.5k , but nothing like before. Even on the run into work today - no real improvement. Whereas getting wheelspin turning right was no problem - now not a chance even if it's wet. I don't wheelspin, just gives an idea of how sluggish it's gone. Didn't think doing a service would cause such a problem.:confused: Any ideas\suggestions? Will be plugging it in this evening. Are MAF's almost consumables on these cars?

Fuse 36 - 30A checked that this afternoon - looks fine. The 1 fuse runs both the front and the back - so isn't that (as the fronts work fine). Drove down the road and 5 miins later starts working. Intermittant at best. I would have thought the moment you push the wiper stalk forward and the rear wash jets come on - within moments the rear wiper would start. This one doesn't - most of the time you could keep the stalk pushed forward & empty the washer bottle, before the wiper does anything.

I've had my B6 130 avant for 2 weeks and when I bought it the rear wiper worked as expected. Yesterday came to use it and realised the washer jet works but the wiper doesn't move. It isn't stuck or anything. Any ideas? If I have to get to the motor - what needs removing? Assume it's a dealer part only?

My mate is coming back in about 3 weeks and is bringing me back some other bits and pieces for a classic BMW (stupid little stuff that is NLA in the UK), so why not a cable?

Does anyone know if RossTech will send the cable to a US address if purchased by someone from the UK (with a UK CC)? And then get your friend\etc to either post it out or collect it when next visiting, etc.

Stuck it on Fleebay in the end. 1994 AUDI 80 TDI GREEN on eBay (end time 25-Sep-09 12:58:07 BST) See what happens.