amattila Posted September 1, 2009 Report Share Posted September 1, 2009 I got answer from the shop about the Audio System AS100BMW speakers, and they said that "No this speaker is not for the E60, is only for BMW 1er (E81, E82, E87, E88), 3er (E90, E91)". And they advertise in their web page that it would fit E60 - like all other shops do too. After a couple emails, they are willing to change it. Now I'm wondering that is there anything else that could be fitted to E60 door.. ? My audio system is standard system with a twist. I have DLS tweeters on front doors, and a custom built subwoofer box built into spare-tire place, with 1-channel focal solid 1 amplifier on top of it. Kenwood shallow 12" subwoofer. Highlevel input is taken from under-seat subs I think. (Didnt do the installation myself). So, I have the highs and the lows, but the mid and midbass sound is not so punchy as they should. If this speaker upgrade wont do the trick, I'm planning to get that THA275 to glovebox. What you you think guys? Should I try to mod those Audio system speakers to fit, or is there something else I could swap them..? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gizze Posted September 1, 2009 Report Share Posted September 1, 2009 hazmo, I would just add the L7 tweeters, don't even upgrade the mids. amattila, I would consider doing the same, the speakers are OK, and they work in the spaces provided, once amplified properly they are not bad at all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hazmo Posted September 3, 2009 Report Share Posted September 3, 2009 Gizze, the Real OEM website shows 2 midrange speakers and 2 tweeters on the rear parcel shelf. I am going for the 5 channel amp and adding front door tweeters and underseat subwoofers and leaving the existing front door midrange speakers. Do I need to add the parcel shelf tweeters? or just leave the midrange speakers supplied as standard with the basic BMW system (Not Hifi, Logic 7 or individual) Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gizze Posted September 3, 2009 Report Share Posted September 3, 2009 I wouldn't do anything with the rear speakers at all. I cut off all top end on rear speakers and reduce the volume to the point where it is not pulling the soundstage back. So just put tweeters up front and then adjust the rear channels on the amp to reduce treble and gain. Once you have a nice sound up front that fills the cabin rears are not needed for anything other than some rear fill. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hazmo Posted September 3, 2009 Report Share Posted September 3, 2009 Thanks. Amp has just turned up with cables, subwoofers are in transit from the US and tweeters are on order from BMW. Also ordered an assortment of door card fixings just in case! When it all turns up I'll get started. Picked up the car today and the standard stereo is shite so looking forward to an improvement. Thanks for all the info. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amattila Posted September 3, 2009 Report Share Posted September 3, 2009 Took the seats off and replaced those 6.5" subs with Audio System AX08BMW ones. Fitted right in. Had to remove that bmw-plug and strip cables to speaker connectors. Sound was much tighter than before, and I could easily hear it perform better than the original ones, eaven without amp. Put everything back in place, but then started wondering about the + and - wiring. I'm sure that the right side is ok. But on the left side, there are two yellow cables. One with red stripe and other with black stripe. I put them so that YELLOW-RED is + and YELLOW-BLACK is -. Like it normally goes. Put them in and didnt eaven listen. Now, when I compare those bmw-made adapters, it seems that the left side adapter has has black stripe on the other side compared to right side adapter. Downloaded BMW wiring diagram (best to get it after everything is wired ), and it says that left side should have RED/WHITE for + and BROWN/YELLOW for -. So according to diagram, they are wired correctly, but looking at those adapters they are not. Could it be possible that BMW has wired that left side speaker incorrectly? I suspect this because it sound now very good compared to old speakers, and secondly, with my big subwoofer installed on back, I earlier noticed that there was some timing weirdness between these small subs and the big one. With some tunes with very fast bass, it kind of blurred and was not sharp. Kind of like having phase-knob in wrong position. How can I be sure about those connections? I have digital multimeter but I'm no electric engineer, so I know how to measure ohms, but thats it. Does anyone remember how they should be wired, or have pictures about install where to check it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kildegaard Posted September 4, 2009 Report Share Posted September 4, 2009 Hi guys I’m new in the field of improving sound in cars. My homes stereo is fair, but I’ve come to the point where I just don’t accept less than stunning sound in the car. And here’s where you guys com in. I’ve bought the 555 from Blaupunkt, and installed it today. I got it recommended from this thread. But what I slipped quite easily over, was the part about controlling the Subs and cross over/cut of etc. I was surprised that BMW had run the Subs together with the front speakers wire, and therefore I have to run separate wire from the new amp to each of the subs ( sub control was not included in the BMW prewired kit (ordered with the amp) I’ve listened to the setup now, and can clearly hear improvement of the overall sound. In the lack of Sub bas I tried to switch the front and rear speakers, so that i could test the Low and High cut functions. I ran the system with just the Rear Speakers and the front and subs as subs. (rear speakers changed with new Bang & Olufsen (I’m Danish) and it sounded really good. Still needs the last bid, but anyway a fair sound. So as a novice I concluded that the only solution is to run new wires from the sub ports of the amp directly to the subs, and that way being able to control’em with cutof/low/high pass. Any of you have any suggestions or pictures for the easiest way of wiring of this or for improvement besides this Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gizze Posted September 5, 2009 Report Share Posted September 5, 2009 That is exactly what you need to do. Undo the seat, tilt it back, remove subs. Run the cable under the door sill trim and it is dead easy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hazmo Posted September 7, 2009 Report Share Posted September 7, 2009 If you wire the power to the amp direct and not via a switched feed from the head unit, wont the power be on permanently? And if so is this a problem? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gizze Posted September 7, 2009 Report Share Posted September 7, 2009 The amp needs positive and negative, if you go in hi level (from the speakers) then it senses the signal and turns on/off with the head unit. Don't need to attach the remote turn on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hazmo Posted September 7, 2009 Report Share Posted September 7, 2009 Many thanks. Next problem - installed amp in boot at high level under rear parcel shelf. Cabled from head unit to amp with P&P wiring harness and extension. Cable routed from HU under glove compartment, under front footwell carpet then along passenger side floor, below rear seat and through rear seatback to luggage compartment. All works fine except that I have interference on radio (FM). This is on all stations more or less but not on CD or Ipod so guess it must be either RFI or loose connection somewhere. Interference less prominent when car is stationary. Any ideas? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gizze Posted September 7, 2009 Report Share Posted September 7, 2009 I had this on the 3er, I moved the cable around as it went through the boot and it went. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hazmo Posted September 7, 2009 Report Share Posted September 7, 2009 Thanks again - I'll give it a try. More questions!!- Do you need to disconnect the battery when removing the door panel. You have to disconnect the airbag, light, speaker and door wire. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amattila Posted September 7, 2009 Report Share Posted September 7, 2009 I have removed door panel today. I havent took airbag connector out, so I didnt take the battery cable off. Had to drill some holes to those Audio System midtone speakers to get them fit. Very nice improvement also. I can hear some midtones again Screwed up putting door panel back, two times. First, I forgot some screws, then I kind of locked my self in when the door handle was off.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hazmo Posted September 7, 2009 Report Share Posted September 7, 2009 I got the door panel off no problem by as I was only fitting the tweeters I tried to do everything with all the wires still connected. Not easy! My tweeter housings are not the same as the ones photographed earlier in the thread. The housing on my car is part of the plastic door frame trim which goes all the way round the window from the door popper side to the mirror. Anyway now I can't get the door panel back properly. There is a rubber window bead which sits on the bottom of the window opening. This has approx 6 spring clips to which the top of the door panel clips. Only it doesn't at the mirror/tweeter end. Every time I pop it on it just springs open again. Guess I'll have to take the door panel off again and try to re-fit. The deeper I get in the more I think I should have left it to a professional!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amattila Posted September 7, 2009 Report Share Posted September 7, 2009 Hey, there is a catch. In the middle of the door, there is black plastic thing that stays on the door side when you take the panels off. You have to take that out and attach it to panel side. Then after pushin the panels back, if will attach to door properly. I used pliers to squeeze it and then got it off. Its very tight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hazmo Posted September 7, 2009 Report Share Posted September 7, 2009 Wow!! Got the tweeters in and door panels back on (secure top first then work your way down the door - doh!). Anyway amp in tweeters in and the sound difference is quite astonishing. Just waiting for the subwoofers to arrive from the US to complete the project. A huge vote of thanks to all that have contributed to this thread specially Gizze without whom etc etc. Now if I could just get the radio to stop buzzing....... If anyone needs advice on dismantling the dash to get the head unit out or removing and re-fitting door panels on a E60 LCI please feel free to ask. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hazmo Posted September 14, 2009 Report Share Posted September 14, 2009 Earthquake sub-woofers have arrived. Quick question - there is a small and a large terminal on the speaker. Which one is negative? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biscuits Posted September 14, 2009 Author Report Share Posted September 14, 2009 Earthquake sub-woofers have arrived. Quick question - there is a small and a large terminal on the speaker. Which one is negative?Thanks I can't remember now. Just get a 9v PP£ battery and tap the terminals. If the cone moves out (up) the +ve of the battery is on the +ve of the speaker, if it moves in (down) then it's the wrong way round. Good luck and get the dremel warmed up Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hazmo Posted September 14, 2009 Report Share Posted September 14, 2009 Thanks for the advice. It's just taken me 4 hrs 20 minutes just to get the passenger side sub-woofer done. 1 hour of that was spent trying to get the seat back in!!! Anyway 1 down 1 to go but probably leave until the weekend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul-V6 Posted September 20, 2009 Report Share Posted September 20, 2009 Will this upgrade work with a car with professional navigation fitted? If so i will be ordering some parts soon! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amattila Posted September 20, 2009 Report Share Posted September 20, 2009 Yes, I think there is no difference on the connector behind the iDrive system. At least I hope so, because my THA555 amp is on the way ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gizze Posted September 20, 2009 Report Share Posted September 20, 2009 As long as there is no audio upgrade it works the same. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amattila Posted September 28, 2009 Report Share Posted September 28, 2009 Got my amp last week, and worked the wirings behind head unit. Its a tight fit to push the unit back, but I thought that it was ok. But then, when I connected the battery back, I got many warnings, DSC DTC .. etc. Like tends to happen when you take battery out. But one warning stayed, "SOS Call system failure". It alerts every time now when I start the car. Did some googling, and found out that incompatible bluetooth phone can do this. Workaround was to delete paired phones, but I cant get to bluetooth menu deep enough. All I get is "Bluetooth is active" and there is a box without X. Could it be that when I stuffed the head unit back (it was very tight), some cable might have gone off? Anyone had this problem? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gizze Posted September 28, 2009 Report Share Posted September 28, 2009 Did you transfer the mist optical connector from your original harness to the new plug and play harness? And be careful with it as it is optical and delicate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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