farmerpalmer Posted April 24, 2010 Report Share Posted April 24, 2010 Why you shouldn't wash your car this weekend | Mail Online But at least they do give some advice on how to wash your car. Personally, over the winter, i have been finding snow foam just great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steelwind101 Posted April 24, 2010 Report Share Posted April 24, 2010 Intreasting stuff, i already washed mine last week and will probably do them tommorow too! There is always the problem of mixing ash with water and then ending up with high or low PH reaction causing problems with the protection or rubber etc. I have seen people saying the ash is sharp, i dont think i have even seen any ash around my way. So a decent pre-wash and wash with a good shampoo and really good rinse would be ideal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick 63 Posted April 24, 2010 Report Share Posted April 24, 2010 Yes definately interesting but have just washed my car this evening,but another question springs to mind.With all this dust settling on our cars,what about the water we use to wash them.With a lot of reseviors open to the elements doesn't the dust go in the water? And then I wonder is it filtered out completely or is it not possible.you then use this contaminated water on your car. Like I say just a thought. :confused: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spikeyboy Posted April 24, 2010 Report Share Posted April 24, 2010 I didnt read this before cleaing my car today, having said that i always rinse, snow foam, grit guard and two bucket method when cleaning the car. My reason for wanting to clean the car was that it had been sat in the open for two weeks and was covered in dust (i only got back from the USA yesterday), knowing how bad this volcanic ash stuff is i wanted it off the car asap. Sadly my concerns were confirmed once i had finshed cleaning and drying, all the upper surfaces have been pitted, its like a million small mild bird etchings, size of the are like small water drops. Im guessing whilst i was away it either rained or dew formed on the car, mixed with the ash and turned acidic i have come to this conclusion as the marks are only on the upper facing surfaces (roof and bonnet being the worst effected) Tried Dodo Lime Prime by hand on a small area, seemed to clear it a bit, then tried a clay bar - no effect. Guess next step will be Dodo Juice Lime Prime by machine and see what that does. Im rather annoyed at the moment, owned cars for over 20 years and ever since i paid out for a professional detail last year the car has been hit with major bird crap and now this Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick 63 Posted April 24, 2010 Report Share Posted April 24, 2010 I didnt read this before cleaing my car today, having said that i always rinse, snow foam, grit guard and two bucket method when cleaning the car.My reason for wanting to clean the car was that it had been sat in the open for two weeks and was covered in dust (i only got back from the USA yesterday), knowing how bad this volcanic ash stuff is i wanted it off the car asap. Sadly my concerns were confirmed once i had finshed cleaning and drying, all the upper surfaces have been pitted, its like a million small mild bird etchings, size of the are like small water drops. Im guessing whilst i was away it either rained or dew formed on the car, mixed with the ash and turned acidic i have come to this conclusion as the marks are only on the upper facing surfaces (roof and bonnet being the worst effected) Tried Dodo Lime Prime by hand on a small area, seemed to clear it a bit, then tried a clay bar - no effect. Guess next step will be Dodo Juice Lime Prime by machine and see what that does. Im rather annoyed at the moment, owned cars for over 20 years and ever since i paid out for a professional detail last year the car has been hit with major bird crap and now this Hi Sorry to hear there has been damage done to your car's paint work,I washed mine today snow foamed first then rinsed,followed by the two bucket method as car has been covered in dust for about a week. But I seem to be lucky compared to yourself there doesn't seem to be any paint work damage. I am having it professionally cleaned next week not a full detail,if they spot anything hopefully they can sort it. Rick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steelwind101 Posted April 25, 2010 Report Share Posted April 25, 2010 Oh wow Spikeyboy! Hmm, i knew that was a possbility but i did not think it would happen to anyone. Are you sure its acutally damage to the paintwork not ask or something bonded to the car? I have seen the effects of acid rain removed many times so i suspect you have a fixable problem. You will probably need something more aggressive then Lime Prime though as it contains some fillers you might not know how far your getting. You can always try claying the car too if they are above the surface damage it could be the ash has formed and stuck on the car giving the feeling of pitting. Does the damage look like the images in this post? How To Remove Water Spots - Car Care Forums: Meguiar's Online Geoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spikeyboy Posted April 25, 2010 Report Share Posted April 25, 2010 Geoff, Thanks for your reply - i first tried limeprime by hand on a side panel - it improved it a bit, then tried claying a small area of the bonnet but had no effect, hence why i beleive its echted. Think i will try scratchX-2 with mild polishing pad. Not a great picture, but you can see the marks on the bonnet, if you look directly at the bonnet you cant see them, look from the side and it looks real bad. [ATTACH]39072[/ATTACH] Worst bit is the wife saying "its only a car" so i have somehow got to find the time to get out there, wash the car again and then hit it with the DA and ScratchX-2, then wax again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spikeyboy Posted April 27, 2010 Report Share Posted April 27, 2010 Now thinking about getting some better polishes to sort this out with my Megs 220. Thinking of getting: Menzerna Final Finish Polish - P0 85 RE 5 - 250ml Menzerna Power Finish Polish - P0 203S - 250ml Presume that 250ml will be enough to do the car ? I have the Sonus Red, White and Yellow pads to use with my G220. Presume the above polishes will be good to use, and the power finish should be used with the White (medium) pad and the Final Finsh with the Red (polishing) pad ? will i actually need both products or could i just use the power finsh polish with first the white then red pads ? My only other concern is that the car was corrected by Nathan at Cambridge Autogleam last year, so trust doing it again wont be an issue and i run out of clear coat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tarmac_Terrorist Posted April 27, 2010 Report Share Posted April 27, 2010 I'd imagine you've got a good 10 hours solid work correcting and rewaxing via ayour DA polisher. I'd imagine the Menz 203s would do the trick nicely on a polishing pad (not familiar with the colours / type you have without researching). I believe the 203s will finish down to a nicely without a seperate finishing polish but you'll need to work it very thoroughly so as not to leave micromarring from the abrasives not being broken down properly Pehaps Nathan took some depth readings before your earlier correction. I'd imagine you'll be fine or i'm sure Nathan would not have taken the risk with abrasive polishes in the first place. He probably only removed 3-4 microns at the most. Personally I'd be tempted to try Autoglym SRP via DA first on a polishing pad. SRP does contain some abrasives and cleaners. I've achieved some great results from SRP via my Kestrel dual action polisher and working it fairly well. True, it does fill scratches / swirls well but obviously it's the cleaning / light abrasive properties that matter here. It would be much quicker if srp does work too. Why nor try taping off a quarter of your bonnet first and having a good bash at it. You can always step up to the more abrasive Menz polishes if you need to. 250ml of polish will be enough to do your car....and the rest of your neighbourhood too!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spikeyboy Posted April 27, 2010 Report Share Posted April 27, 2010 Thanls for the reply. 10 hours - ouch the wife wont be happy. I have a couple of bottles of SRP laying around so could give that a go first, will order an extra polishing pad as well as the menz stuff, just in case the SRP doesnt work and i need to use the menz. Sonus pads: Red = finishing (no cut) White (polishing, mild cut) yellow (heaviest cut). I hate that damn volcano, not only did i get stuck away from home on my birthday, plus an extra 2 days away, but it also buggered my car, and i only applied a fresh coat of Dodo Super natural the week before i went away. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steelwind101 Posted April 28, 2010 Report Share Posted April 28, 2010 Hi Spikey, I have the 203s and just used this weekend, it corrects really well on an Orange Lake Country Pad on the Mitsubishi which is really soft paint and finishes out well too. Had an accident hitting some bits of a bush a few weeks ago! I think its a good all around polish, i cant help but think prehapes SIP would 100% clear up the problem. Either products, on hard paint would need to be followed with less potent like the other Menz you mentioned. I would start 203s on the Sonus White, but i suspect you will need it on yellow and speed up at around 5-6 and a bit of pressure to start. As TT said your probably fine with regard paint depth, you never know b/c you dont know who what happened before you had in your hands. But you'll probably be fine. Once you have primed the pad you need a couple of pea, if not smaller size drops for a foot or so of polishing! Let us know how you get on. Geoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spikeyboy Posted April 28, 2010 Report Share Posted April 28, 2010 Thanks - i have ordered the menz polishes plus a megs soft buff 2 polishing pad. Now just have to find the time that the wife lets me for doing the job. Presume when you said SIP you menat SRP ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steelwind101 Posted April 28, 2010 Report Share Posted April 28, 2010 Hi! SIP i meant Super Intensive Polish! Geoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tarmac_Terrorist Posted April 28, 2010 Report Share Posted April 28, 2010 Not heard of Super Intensive Polish before. What is this stuff? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steelwind101 Posted April 28, 2010 Report Share Posted April 28, 2010 Not heard of Super Intensive Polish before.What is this stuff? PO85RD3.02 i just have the USA bottle where its called Super Intensive Polish Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tarmac_Terrorist Posted April 29, 2010 Report Share Posted April 29, 2010 PO85RD3.02 i just have the USA bottle where its called Super Intensive Polish Thanks Geoff - I wish all Menzerna products had a name rather than a number. I would be much easier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steelwind101 Posted April 29, 2010 Report Share Posted April 29, 2010 I also have the less popular PO87MC (Final Polish, renamed Micro Polish now called a number!), which can really get sticky and crappy! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spikeyboy Posted April 30, 2010 Report Share Posted April 30, 2010 Hi Guys, my gear turned up yesterday. Menz Power finish polish and Final Finish polish, plus new megs soft buff 2 polishing pad. Had yesterday off and after spending most of the day shopping with the wife at Bluewater, she let me get out on the car, sadly just as i finished drying it it started raining (just light drops), anyhow i wasnt going to let this stop me at least trying out the menz power finish polish on the megs pad to see if it would work. Managed to do one hit on the whole bonnet, and it appears to have sorted the problem out. Now to find the time to do the whole car properly. Also spent most of last night watching you tube videos on how to use a PC to polish, was doing a coulple of thing wrong (only had speed 4.5) and also using wrong amount of product. Also from what people were saying on youtube, it would appear very diffuclt to actualy run out of clearcoat using the megs G220 with mild polishes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steelwind101 Posted April 30, 2010 Report Share Posted April 30, 2010 Thats great news that you can sort it out and that your mastering the polisher! I hope you find the time over the bank holiday, prehapes you will have to take the wife shopping again! Once you have the knack of the polishing, ie speed, movement and how much polish getting good results becomes alot easier. I found 203s (Power finish) very easy to use, you will probably achieve more gloss with the Final Finish as a second step if you have time. If you do not dont worry as you can wait until the autumn to give your car a yearly "clean up" with Final Finish. Remove light marks that we get from general use and washing and restore some gloss. Geoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spikeyboy Posted April 30, 2010 Report Share Posted April 30, 2010 Geoff, many thanks for all you advice, you are a godend on this forum. Hopefully just one more question, would it be best to use the final finish polish on a polishing pad (mega yellow or sonus White) or a finishing pad (sonus red) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steelwind101 Posted April 30, 2010 Report Share Posted April 30, 2010 Hi Spikey, Thanks for the compliments, i like the share knowledge where it helps people! Final Polish is best applied using of your polishing pads. The white sonus pad will work a bit quicker then the Megs Polishing pad as its smaller and the machine has less work to spin it. Geoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tarmac_Terrorist Posted April 30, 2010 Report Share Posted April 30, 2010 Good news Spikeyboy - glad you've found a combination that works Don't forget some piccies! Typically I had planned to polish my Golf this weekend but the forecast it pretty poor. Maybe Monday if other jobs don't take priorty Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spikeyboy Posted April 30, 2010 Report Share Posted April 30, 2010 Thanks guys. Once done i will put up some piccies, hopefully i can get it back looking to how it was after Nathan had worked on it. Ideally could do with somewhere to work on it under cover, but my garage is to small for the car to even fit in !!!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OGWT Posted May 1, 2010 Report Share Posted May 1, 2010 (edited) Thanks Geoff - I wish all Menzerna products had a name rather than a number. I would be much easier. This may help - Menzerna USA: The World's Finest Polishing Materials http://www.menzernausa.com/Charts/Liquid%20Summary3.15.10.tiff Edited May 1, 2010 by OGWT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsheldon Posted May 9, 2010 Report Share Posted May 9, 2010 I have some marks this morning on the flat panels, they look like small water marks, but you can not feel them. Usual wash and QD has not removed them, so the boot and bonnet may need claying, sealing etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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