[Audi A3/S3] A3 1.8T dynoed 165 bhp after remap PLz HELP!

[A3_Beast]

Ok lads im in need of some help. I recently got my A3 1.8 T (AGU) remmaped by Jason at morebhp.com. I heard good things about his remaps and his customer feedback seemed good so i decided to get him to remap my car for me. His website quotes power gains for the standard 1.8T 150 bhp engine to be 194 bhp and 200 torque. When it was first done it seemed quiet quick and pulled strong but now i dont think it feels like it did. I know them power figures are not 100% accurate and differ from engine to engine.

Anyway i had a Cold Air Intake and Forge splitter on my car before the remap and when that was done i had a Milltek cat-back fitted and had my car on the dynostics machine at G werks which showed no faults except something about the inlet temperatures getting hot.

I had my car on the rolling road at Devil Dynamics for a power run which resulted in my car putting down 164.7 bhp and nearly 200 torque. Peak boost is at 15 psi and drops off to around 12 psi or less. Where is my extra 30 bhp im missing? After my power run i was disappoined and was looking to get a Revo remap. Should i ditch the map iv got or should i try and find any problem that is losing me power from my current map before i even think about the Revo remap? I didnt really want to waste the money on the Revo remap incase something is wrong with my car and i didnt gain anything because of the possible fault i might have.

so my questions are, is the remap i got crap? or is there something wrong with my car that is making it lose a decent amount of bhp? am i looking for 25-30 bhp that is not even there from this map? could there be something wrong with my car that the dynostics machine didnt or cant pick up? is there anything extra i have to buy to help solve my problem? has anyone after a remap seen power figures gaining quiet a increase in torque from standard but not as much bhp?

I spoke to the man who remmaped it and he said that i should have gained more bhp than i did from his remap and suggested that my air flow meter could be faulty and the loss in bhp could be from that also he said to replace my Forge Splitter. So how do i know if my air flow meter is faulty or how do i do tests on it? would the dynostics test or dyno run picked up that i had a faulty one? Do i need to change the Forge Splitter? I dont really want to go out and buy a new one unless i know its nackered. My car does seem to run boggy and really under powered at times but other times it runs abit better but decent power delivery doesnt seem consistant.

I spoke to him the other day and he said that i could send the ECU back to him and he could put a stronger map on it for me if i wanted. Should i do that or should i be looking for a problem with my car that is possibly losing me the extra bhp im looking for?

Is it OK for me to safely run my k03 turbo between 18-20 psi? or is it not worth it? Soon i will be buying a FMIC and a Milltek High Flow Sports Cat to add to the Cold Air intake and Milltek cat-back i alredy have fitted so hopefully i should get closer to the 200bhp im aiming for if i can sort my mapping problems out.

Any help or advice would be muched appreciated. I would like to say thank you to anyone who has took the time to read the lenghly post.

I look forward to receiving some help from you experts on here.

Cheers

Sam

Edited July 25, 2010 by A3_Beast

[shark_90]

Have you checked for boost leaks? High inlet temps suggest the turbo is working hard so get your pipework checked.

I would suggest that you bring your car in for a full diagnostic with us (smoke test on the boost and vacuum system, datalogging etc) but I notice that you're a long way away.

As for going with Revo or anyone else, there is no point in spending money on another remap until you 100% know that your car is mechanically sound.

[Mook]

First off, if you start with a 150 base on a K03, you'll only ever get 180 with a remap. Add the other stuff you have and you'll see 10 or so bhp more. A CAI makes very little difference on a dyno, because of the poor airflow when the car's static.

No, it's not worth running massive boost on a K03 - it just doesn't flow enough. K03S won't give you much more, but it'll give a bit more.

Was the flywheel bhp calculated on the run-down, or did the dyno operator just take the wheel bhp and then apply a default multiplier to get flywheel bhp?

Problem could be caused by one of many, many things - you need to get it plugged into VCDS (a.k.a. VagCom - a diagnostics tool) at a local specialist. Could be MAF, boost leak, other sensors - too much to choose from.

Best of luck sorting it out.

[A3_Beast]

Cheers mate, first i would like to say thank you for such a quick reply. I havent checked for boost leaks but i did susspect that i might have one. I have not had this car long and its my first VAG 1.8T. When i last had my car on the diagnostics just before the dyno run would it of pick up boost leaks? or would the power run picked up on this?

Where abouts are you based? if you live close enough i would like to book my car in for a full diagnostics test to see whats up because i defo feel something is wrong and i would like to get it sorted before i spend anymore money on it, before i upgrade anything else i want to make sure my car is mechanically sound. If i do live to far mate could you recommend anywhere i can get a boost smoke test in the West Sussex area?

Cheers for the help mate, any more help or advice will be taken on on board.

A BIG THANKS TO THE MEMBERS OF TYRESMOKE THAT WERE KIND ENOUGH TO REPLY TO MY POST

[A3_Beast]

Have you checked for boost leaks? High inlet temps suggest the turbo is working hard so get your pipework checked.

I would suggest that you bring your car in for a full diagnostic with us (smoke test on the boost and vacuum system, datalogging etc) but I notice that you're a long way away.

As for going with Revo or anyone else, there is no point in spending money on another remap until you 100% know that your car is mechanically sound.

Cheers mate, first i would like to say thank you for such a quick reply. I havent checked for boost leaks but i did susspect that i might have one. I have not had this car long and its my first VAG 1.8T. When i last had my car on the diagnostics just before the dyno run would it of pick up boost leaks? or would the power run picked up on this?

Where abouts are you based? if you live close enough i would like to book my car in for a full diagnostics test to see whats up because i defo feel something is wrong and i would like to get it sorted before i spend anymore money on it, before i upgrade anything else i want to make sure my car is mechanically sound. If i do live to far mate could you recommend anywhere i can get a boost smoke test in the West Sussex area?

Cheers for the help mate, any more help or advice will be taken on on board.

A BIG THANKS TO THE MEMBERS OF TYRESMOKE THAT WERE KIND ENOUGH TO REPLY TO MY POST

[A3_Beast]

Cheers for the quick reply MOOK, i was there when my car was on the dyno but to be honest im not sure what the guy was doing. All i know dude is that it pulled 175 HP first run and 164 BHP on the other 2 runs, but the print out he gave me was the 164.7 HP one. Power at the flywheel was 135.7 HP. Nearly 200 torque and running 15 PSI which drops off to around 12 PSI or less. I will try and post pictures of my dyno print out once i find out how to do it if thats going to help anyone help me resolve my problem.

MOOK in your opinion from what i have said and the figures iv got, do you think the map i got is OK or should i go for another map IE Revo, APR, Rtech etc? or should i look for problems with my car that might be holding back some extra power from the map iv got?

Iv heard of people on forums saying that there 1.8Ts are pushing out 200BHP on the standard remmaped k03 turbo and i have been told that that figure is easily acheivable. How true is this? All i want from my car is the best part of 200 BHP and 200 torque before i upgarde to the quattro or the S3. How can i get these figures? because im not happy with the 164 BHP iv got and im pretty sure my car could be a little quicker and put down abit more BHP. If 200BHP is not easily acheivable on my (AGU) 1.8T please could someone put me out of my misery before i waste anymore hard earned money LOL.

Anymore help or advice from you or anyone else will be much appreciated

A MASSIVE THANKS TO ANYONE THAT HAS READ THIS THREAD AND THAT WERE KIND ENOUGH TO REPLY

[SINGH]

Contact Ben at Avperformance. Not sure what he has done but I know he has a 1.8T A3 pushing out 280 BHP or something like that. He took me out in it and it is very quick.

[Mook]

Sam, first off, pleas stop using bold and colours - it makes your posts really hard to read. Ta

I can't comment on the map you've got, but having a torque figure so far from the power figure isn't right. You'll normally get almost matching figures from 1.8T engines, so 200bhp and about 200 ft/lb of torque.

Oh yes, and the "real world" of people saying on forums what their cars are pushing out - it's a web forum, so it ain't always or necessarily true.

You can squeeze 190+bhp out of a K03d 1.8T with a decent remap, full exhaust including ho-flow sports cats and bigger injectors, plus a decent flowing air intake. These are real figures, not over-inflated figures which most tuners quote you, primarily just to win your business. Run a K03s and you can squeeze 210-220bhp.

Talk to Ben (Shark_90 above) at Shark Performance - he's based near Nottingham, but it's worth the trip, because he's good at what he does.

If that's too far, talk to Ed at APS in Brackley.

HTH

[A3_Beast]

Mook cheers for replying again. The difference between the power figures iv got to the torque figures would that indicate something is wrong with my car? or the map itself? i thought it was weird that i gained a decent amount of torque but not as much power. Im really stuck on what to do mate.

With the map i got If my car put down atleast 180 ish bhp when i dynoed it i would have been abit happier and after fitting my FMIC and Milltek sports cat i probaly left it as that untill i get a new A3.

But being 20 bhp off the 180-185 bhp i would have been happy with has made me not stop thinking that something is wrong with my car or the remap. Someone please correct me if im wrong or if im missing something.

I thought from a remap, CAI and Milltek cat-back i would make atleast 180 bhp but that is not the case for me.

Please if anyone has any more suggestions or possible faults i may have resulting in bhp/power loss on remmaped 1.8T engines any help would be much appreciated.

CHEERS AGAIN FOR THE HELP THAT I HAVE ALREADY RECEIVED FROM YOU GOOD FELLAS HERE AT TYRESMOKE

[A3_Beast]

OK LADS THIS IS A LINK TO MY DYNO GRAPHS AFTER HAVING MY CAR REMMAPED. PLEASE TAKE A LOOK AND TELL ME WHAT YOU GUYS THINK MY PROBLEM MIGHT BE.

FAULT ON MY CAR RESULTING IN BHP LOSS OR NOT GOOD ENOUGH REMAP ??????????????????????????

Yfrog Image : yfrog.com/nd68493183j - Uploaded by a3_beast

Yfrog Image : yfrog.com/nd95343575j - Uploaded by a3_beast

I SPOKE TO BEN TODAY HE TOLD ME TO SEND THE GRAPHS TO HIM TO LOOK AT WHICH I WILL BE DOING. I THOUGHT I WOULD PUT A LINK ON HERE FOR EVERYONE ELSE TO LOOK AT THE PRINT OUTS.

WHEN THE CAR WAS DYNOED IT WAS RUNNING A REMAP FROM MOREBHP, FORGE SPLITTER,CAI, AND A MILLTEK CAT-BACK EXHAUST.

FROM THE REMAP I GOT I WOULD HAVE BEEN ABIT HAPPIER IF MY CAR PULLED ATLEAST 180-185 HP THEN I PROBALY WOULD OF CALLED IT A DAY UNTILL I GET A NEW A3 BUT IT ONLY PRODUCED 164.7 HP WHICH MAKES ME THINK THAT I COULD HAVE A FAULT OR DONT HAVE A DECENT MAP, EITHER WAY I WANT TO GET IT SORTED AND MAKE A LITTLE MORE POWER THAN IV GOT BECAUSE I KNOW I CAN GET MORE THAT 165 BHP FROM MY 1.8T. SOMEONE PLEASE CORRECT ME IF IM WRONG.

I HAVE 77000 MILES ON THE CLOCK AND HAVE FULL AUDI SERVICE AND IT GETS SERVICED BY THEM REGULARY REGARDLESS TO COST, SO YOU WOULD THINK THAT MY CAR IS REMAPING MATERIAL.

CAN ANYONE TELL FROM LOOKING AT THE GRAPHS WHERE IM LOSING THE EXTRA BHP OR IF I MIGHT EVEN HAD IT TO BEGIN WITH? CAN YOU TELL IF THE MAP IS ANY GOOD? CAN YOU SEE FROM THE GRAPHS IF I HAVE A BOOST LEAK OR IF THE AIR FLOW METER IS FAULTY OR ON ITS WAY OUT? IS THERE ANY THING I CAN DO OR BUY TO IMPROVE THESE FIGURES?

I REALLY WANT TO KNOW IF I HAVE A FAULT ON MY CAR WHICH IS MAKING ME LOSE POWER OR IF THE MAP I GOT IS NOT CAPIABLE OF PRODUCING ATLEAST 180 HP. ONCE I KNOW IF ITS A FAULT WITH THE CAR OR IF I HAVE NOT GOT A GOOD ENOUGH MAP I CAN START SPENDING MY MONEY IN THE RIGHT AREAS TO ACHEIVE MY 190-200 BHP TARGET.

THE MAN WHO REMMAPED MY CAR INSISTED THAT HIS MAP SHOULD HAVE GAINED MORE BHP THAN IT DID AND SAID I COULD HAVE A FAULT WITH MY MAF OR ANOTHER FAULT RESULTING IN THE BHP LOSS HE RECKONS I SHOULD HAVE. SO I HAVE MY CAR BOOKED IN AT G WERKS TO TEST MY MAF AND TO SEE IF I HAVE A BOOST LEAK. I HOPE THE OUT COME OF THAT CAN HELP ME MOVE ON. I WILL UPDATE MY POST WHEN ONCE THE TESTS ARE DONE.

CHEERS AGAIN TO THE LADS AT TYRESMOKE AND AS ALWAYS ANY HELP TIPS OR ADVICE WOULD GET TAKEN ON BOARD AND WOULD BE APPRECIATED.

Edited July 27, 2010 by A3_Beast

[bazza_g]

thanks for the update, afraid the link's not working for me?

Also, please ease up WITH THE CAPS THERE'S NO NEED TO SHOUT ALL THE TIME, we get the urgency

[A3_Beast]

thanks for the update, afraid the link's not working for me?

Also, please ease up WITH THE CAPS THERE'S NO NEED TO SHOUT ALL THE TIME, we get the urgency

Sorry mate, i dont use caps to make it look like im angry or to give the impression that im shouting because im not, i bold or make some sentances bigger to make it stand out to catch the eye of the reader so that they take that key information on board.

Im not sure what the big deal is with caps but im quiet new on this site and i will try stop using caps in my future posts. Sorry if i have inoyed anyone :):):).

Cheers

[A3_Beast]

OK LADS THIS IS A LINK TO MY DYNO GRAPHS AFTER HAVING MY CAR REMMAPED. PLEASE TAKE A LOOK AND TELL ME WHAT YOU GUYS THINK MY PROBLEM MIGHT BE.

FAULT ON MY CAR RESULTING IN BHP LOSS OR NOT GOOD ENOUGH REMAP ??????????????????????????

Yfrog Image : yfrog.com/nd68493183j - Uploaded by a3_beast

Yfrog Image : yfrog.com/nd95343575j - Uploaded by a3_beast

I SPOKE TO BEN TODAY HE TOLD ME TO SEND THE GRAPHS TO HIM TO LOOK AT WHICH I WILL BE DOING. I THOUGHT I WOULD PUT A LINK ON HERE FOR EVERYONE ELSE TO LOOK AT THE PRINT OUTS.

WHEN THE CAR WAS DYNOED IT WAS RUNNING A REMAP FROM MOREBHP, FORGE SPLITTER,CAI, AND A MILLTEK CAT-BACK EXHAUST.

FROM THE REMAP I GOT I WOULD HAVE BEEN ABIT HAPPIER IF MY CAR PULLED ATLEAST 180-185 HP THEN I PROBALY WOULD OF CALLED IT A DAY UNTILL I GET A NEW A3 BUT IT ONLY PRODUCED 164.7 HP WHICH MAKES ME THINK THAT I COULD HAVE A FAULT OR DONT HAVE A DECENT MAP, EITHER WAY I WANT TO GET IT SORTED AND MAKE A LITTLE MORE POWER THAN IV GOT BECAUSE I KNOW I CAN GET MORE THAT 165 BHP FROM MY 1.8T. SOMEONE PLEASE CORRECT ME IF IM WRONG.

I HAVE 77000 MILES ON THE CLOCK AND HAVE FULL AUDI SERVICE AND IT GETS SERVICED BY THEM REGULARY REGARDLESS TO COST, SO YOU WOULD THINK THAT MY CAR IS REMAPING MATERIAL.

CAN ANYONE TELL FROM LOOKING AT THE GRAPHS WHERE IM LOSING THE EXTRA BHP OR IF I MIGHT EVEN HAD IT TO BEGIN WITH? CAN YOU TELL IF THE MAP IS ANY GOOD? CAN YOU SEE FROM THE GRAPHS IF I HAVE A BOOST LEAK OR IF THE AIR FLOW METER IS FAULTY OR ON ITS WAY OUT? IS THERE ANY THING I CAN DO OR BUY TO IMPROVE THESE FIGURES?

I REALLY WANT TO KNOW IF I HAVE A FAULT ON MY CAR WHICH IS MAKING ME LOSE POWER OR IF THE MAP I GOT IS NOT CAPIABLE OF PRODUCING ATLEAST 180 HP. ONCE I KNOW IF ITS A FAULT WITH THE CAR OR IF I HAVE NOT GOT A GOOD ENOUGH MAP I CAN START SPENDING MY MONEY IN THE RIGHT AREAS TO ACHEIVE MY 190-200 BHP TARGET.

THE MAN WHO REMMAPED MY CAR INSISTED THAT HIS MAP SHOULD HAVE GAINED MORE BHP THAN IT DID AND SAID I COULD HAVE A FAULT WITH MY MAF OR ANOTHER FAULT RESULTING IN THE BHP LOSS HE RECKONS I SHOULD HAVE. SO I HAVE MY CAR BOOKED IN AT G WERKS TO TEST MY MAF AND TO SEE IF I HAVE A BOOST LEAK. I HOPE THE OUT COME OF THAT CAN HELP ME MOVE ON. I WILL UPDATE MY POST WHEN ONCE THE TESTS ARE DONE.

CHEERS AGAIN TO THE LADS AT TYRESMOKE AND AS ALWAYS ANY HELP TIPS OR ADVICE WOULD GET TAKEN ON BOARD AND WOULD BE APPRECIATED.

If anyone is having problems opening the link please advice me further as this is the first time i have posted a link to pictures and i may have done this wrong. Sorry for the inconveinience

[PetrolDave]

A3_Beast

On all internet forums, not just this one, all capitals is seen as SHOUTING.

Just type like everyone else - in mixed case, no bold, no colour, no capitals. We'll help you just as much (maybe more) if you don't make your posts in our faces all the time.

I think we've already given you the best advice we can - take it to someone who knows what they're doing, someone like Shark90 - it will be worth the drive.

[A3_Beast]

A3_Beast

On all internet forums, not just this one, all capitals is seen as SHOUTING.

Just type like everyone else - in mixed case, no bold, no colour, no capitals. We'll help you just as much (maybe more) if you don't make your posts in our faces all the time.

I think we've already given you the best advice we can - take it to someone who knows what they're doing, someone like Shark90 - it will be worth the drive.

ok mate no problem

[rtechnick]

Not being funny be we see AGU making close on to 160bhp/170lbft in stock form.

The AGU ko3 can make around 200bhp245lbft with a good remap and full turbo back exhaust. They are safe running 21psi peak and 16psi with ve tail off with the correct fuel and timing advance. Run high boost with too little advance and a lambda higher then 13:1 will result in a loss of power due to massive heat build up from the exhaust gasses which then results in the already lame timing map the be pulled back even more from higher intake temps, ex manifold heat exchange. and pre det.

A good spec1 remap from a stock GOOD running AGU should easy give 180-192bhp 210-220lbft with a fast spool peak of 17-18psi and holding 14.5psi with a lambda of 13.5:1 upto around 4k then 12.5:1 to the red line. Which is very safe boost and will not over work the turbo.

A well tuned AGU with Ko3s and with the right mods will give around 230-235bhp 250-270lbft with a peak of 21psi and held 18psi with ve tail off with a red line lambda of 11.5:1.

With 12psi and the correct fuel and the timing advance in the correct window you should easy see 180bhp, this is what the stock APP k03 1.8T Seat leon 180bhp pushes from 12psi. By looking at your lambda graph your fuel is all over the place, a lambda of 11:1- is far too rich for 12psi and could be costing you 20bhp easy, if you was running 18psi+ then a lambda of 11.5:1 would be a good compromise for power and egt cooling.

I can offer you good advise:

1, Ditch the split-r and get the Forge 007p fitted with the yellow spring.

2, Take Bens advise and get the boost and pcv smoke tested, and inspect all the one way check valves on the pcv and brake servo lines.

3, For the sake of it get a brand new oem maf fitted, so you know where you are with the car, (its very hard to log a car with a unknow condition of a maf)

4, Get your car on a good rolling road, not a DD dyno which runs them in 3rd and gets lower results(a tuner who knows how to run mk4s 1.8Ts, ie in 4th gear to fully load the engine) JKM have a DD rolling road and run them in 4th and give spot on results.

5 With vagcom log the requested and actual load maps(blocks 25) with the N75% duty, and log the ignition timing then ask your tuner to provide you with the data from the map, ie the main load map in ms and all of the ignition off set maps. and compare them back to back.

6, if you tuner cannot provide info regarding the map on your car, then get a new tuner who specalise with your engine and who has a dyno so they can make sure your car is running how it should be before they take your money and sending you on your way.

I hope this helps you.

Nick

[A3_Beast]

Cheers for the reply rtechnick.

Since my last post mate i had my car into one of my local garage which is G werks to a look at my vacuum lines and pipe work for any splits and signs of any boost leaks which resulted in them not finding any. They checked my air flow meter to make sure is was running correctly and they said that it was also fine and didnt show signs of being faulty. Someone please correct me if there are some problems that cant be easily diagnosted.

The guy who maped it suggested my air flow meter could be faulty resulting in power loss and because i thought there could be a problem with my car iv had it down at G werks a number of times now to check for any running problems and everytime it seemed fine and had no apparant problems accept one of the diagnostics tests i had done showed the inlet temperatures getting a little hot. Below is what they said on the advisory sheet they gave me last week after they last looked at my car.

'' The car seems to be performing as it should and no obvious problems or faults codes were found. Running on VAG-Com showed figures as you would expect. Suggest the map may be a little '' safe '' and not aggresive as it could be to increase power.

So with that, my dyno print outs and a letter from me explaing my situation i sent my ECU off for him to look at and he sent it back within 2 days saying that he has now put a stage 2 map on it. Im not sure how true all if this is. If the first map couldnt produce at least more than the 165 bhp i wonder what this one is going to produce?.

Anyway i only got my car going again yesterday and i do feel a noticable difference from this map to the first one he done but im not sure what he has changed or what extra hbp this one has made because i havent had a power run yet. Fuel consuption seems usual and it is not burning any more fuel than it did do.

Im not sure if he has increased the boost from the 15 psi it peaked at last time because i dont have boost gauge and im not really sure what he can or has changed to make the difference this map has made. In the lower rev range there is bags of torque and feels like more than before. For now im abit happier but i just want see what power its putting down now. If it doesnt put down atleast 190 bhp from his elehdge stage 2 map and the parts i will be putting on then i no his maps arnt that good and i will visiting Revo or some other well known tuner. After i have another power run i will upload the print outs.

If he has put a stage 2 map on it what parts do you guys think i must or should upgrade to make the map run at its best and make sure im not damaging my car? I will be changing my splitter for the 710n or Forge 007p and replacing my air flow meter when i get round to it. At the moment all i have on my car is a Milltek cat-back and CAI. I will be getting a FMIC soon but i was also wondering which downpipe to get and what you would recommend? as i just found out that Milltek do a de-cat pipe and as you all know a high flow sports cat. I wanted to know if there is any performance and sound differences between the downpies? The de-cat is just under £200 and the high flow sports cat is just over £400. If anyone can reccomend parts to make my car run better and smoother that would be great.

Again I would like to say a massive thank you to you lads here at tyresmoke for all the help and advice you have given me, it has been much appeciated.

Edited August 3, 2010 by A3_Beast

[rtechnick]

The AGU maf is really hard to diagnose as faulty or reading off scale, a fault code reader or basic logging session wont show you nothing. The only real way to tell is to know what the map is asking for at x amount of rpm and load and compare it with the logged data.

The Bosch Motronic 5 ecu found in your car is load based and every aspect of the cars performace depends on a correct MAF reading. There are no boost maps in the Motronic 5 ecu, instead you have a max load map which is based on air temps + air drawn + rpm with some fancy maths based on the engines manifold area and the dispalcement. Your main load map will be rpm v tps v load (ms) (plus there are a few offset maps for altitude and AIT corrections. The fuel maps are based around the load(ms) map, plus the ignition timing maps relate to the load(ms) which looks like 3500rpm@ load9.3ms = 33deg. Now if the engine is making good boost, but if the maf is not seeing the correct air drawn the real time load(ms) will be lower which mean the the injection map will be out of sync and the timing will not be advance enough which means loss off power. If you get stuck let me know I am a bit of a dab hand with the Motronic 5 ecu and live data logging fault finding.

Keep me updated on this one.

Nick

[A3_Beast]

The AGU maf is really hard to diagnose as faulty or reading off scale, a fault code reader or basic logging session wont show you nothing. The only real way to tell is to know what the map is asking for at x amount of rpm and load and compare it with the logged data.

The Bosch Motronic 5 ecu found in your car is load based and every aspect of the cars performace depends on a correct MAF reading. There are no boost maps in the Motronic 5 ecu, instead you have a max load map which is based on air temps + air drawn + rpm with some fancy maths based on the engines manifold area and the dispalcement. Your main load map will be rpm v tps v load (ms) (plus there are a few offset maps for altitude and AIT corrections. The fuel maps are based around the load(ms) map, plus the ignition timing maps relate to the load(ms) which looks like 3500rpm@ load9.3ms = 33deg. Now if the engine is making good boost, but if the maf is not seeing the correct air drawn the real time load(ms) will be lower which mean the the injection map will be out of sync and the timing will not be advance enough which means loss off power. If you get stuck let me know I am a bit of a dab hand with the Motronic 5 ecu and live data logging fault finding.

Keep me updated on this one.

Nick

Cheers for the reply again Nick, i will defo keep you updated on how i get on mate.