njadve Posted September 28, 2010 Report Share Posted September 28, 2010 I have just gotten a Mercedes 210-series with leather interior. This is a great interior that looks really good when properly cared for, but I'm not quite sure what to use. I have used Poorboys Leather Stuff earlier for my fathers Volvo S60, but I don't quite like it. It feels a bit to syntetic, but I'm no expert, so please arrest me if I'm wrong. Earlier I got a tip from someone who recommended a beewax-based product. I have seen this in action, and it's quite stunning. Is there anyone who has any experience with this kind of products? I also checked up Motogeek to see what products that are out there, and I came across this one: Motorgeek for leather cleaner and conditioner It seems quite good from the description, but who knows. The marketing guys can make anything sound good. Is there anyone who have used this? I would also be very glad for suggestions on other products! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr_Singh Posted September 28, 2010 Report Share Posted September 28, 2010 Gliptone cleaning Gel and Gliptone Conditioning lotion is very good for preserving the leather. It can revive old broke down leather to a much better feel/look Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
njadve Posted September 29, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 29, 2010 Thank you! Looks very promising, and gets good reviews. I've ordered and cannot wait to test it out! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steelwind101 Posted September 29, 2010 Report Share Posted September 29, 2010 Keeping leather clean is the key to making it last longer is regular cleaning. After cleaning you really want to protect the leather, not apply a conditioner. There are two reasons for this: - If the leather is has a plastic layer on it then "oils" from so cold conditioners will NOT penetrate this later. The conditioner oils just sit on the top of the leather and in the cracks, they attract dirt and cause damage. Leather protectors keep oil an dirt away from the seats, conditioners do not. Foaming cleaners work the best, depending on what amount of dirt you have will decide what level of PH clean you will require. - Protectors, not conditioners provide a layer of protection which prevents rub marks. Gliptone is an old product, its not all that great on new modern leathers neither is it best product you can purchase for old leathers. Much of the talk about how good it is comes from ignorance of the leather process. Using a cleaner on nearly any leather will make it feel better, simply put you have removed dirt and increased moisture levels. Conditioners even make modern coated leathers feel better, they contain a chemical which softens the plastic layer giving that instant "feel good factor". However, the conditioner will mostly end up back on the cloth you apply it to the seats with as it wont penetrate the leather. If you have manufactured holes in your seats you need to have a product which will go on well and remove from the wholes. Protectors are often thing easy to apply liquids. Its worth understanding leather, its an easy product to look after and an excellent one to own. Once you put in the effort to get it cleaned and keep it maintained with the right products ie: "protectors" then its easy to keep it looking good for a long time. Gliptone et al conditioners are just default answers splurted out across the internet. A poor default valeting product just like washing your car and then drying it off with a chamois.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mb Posted September 29, 2010 Report Share Posted September 29, 2010 That is interesting as when I got my car (RS4 so inevitable bolster wear...) the gliptone cream seemed to really improve the situation. I was lucky enough to be given some Swissvax leather glaze recently which certainly adds some protection (& isn't bad on the perforated leather sides either) so seems like am doing the right thing now but more by luck ! When it comes to cleaning would you then "feed" the leather or just redo the leather glaze ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steelwind101 Posted October 2, 2010 Report Share Posted October 2, 2010 Hi MB I posted a reply yesterday but it dident come out, prehapes its on aother post somewhere! Im not sure what material your seats are, suede/alcantra with some kind of leather leather on the edges? I would give them a very good clean with a quality leather then apply the Swissvax Leather Glaze, i presume its a proper protector from what they say. Sadly, if leather is damaged "feeding" and all other sorts of things will not really repair it, just hide things for a short time. Leathers one of those items that really needs repairing and looking after once its damaged. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GlynH Posted October 6, 2010 Report Share Posted October 6, 2010 I have a couple of grey leather A8 D2 headrests that have been sat in a box for 18 months+ and where they have been in contact with a wiring harness in the same box have black marks on them. Also where the metal rods that secure the headrest on one rest has been laid on top of the other cushion they have left indentation type marks in the cushion. What would be the best thing to remove the black greasy-looking marks with before using a proprietry feed/conditioner-type treatment and is there a way to speed up the cushion springing back into shape please? Thanks & kind regards, -=Glyn=- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steelwind101 Posted October 7, 2010 Report Share Posted October 7, 2010 Glyn No feeders or conditioners please, this is a head rest, a head which is generally oily is going to be in contact with them. The oils will attract dirt and damage the leather, the word you mean is protect. Leather Masters and LLT leather care both offer leather protectors, minus oils etc. Clean the leather with a dedicated leather cleaner, i would suggest something water based. A product that foams is always better, as it penetrates the tiny cracks. Some dirt acutally requires different PH levels to get rid of totally. However, i would say something like Mothers Leather Cleaner, LLT Leather Cleaner, Buffalo Intense Leather Cleaner would all be a good start. Aggitate with a boars hairbursh, failing that go gentle with a nailbrush. As for the pressure marks: They will come out in the end i suspect, the water based leather cleaner will probably help pump up the leather a little. Keep them in a warm location, ie: in the house not in the garage or loft would be a good start. Geoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mb Posted October 11, 2010 Report Share Posted October 11, 2010 That is interesting as when I got my car (RS4 so inevitable bolster wear...) the gliptone cream seemed to really improve the situation. I was lucky enough to be given some Swissvax leather glaze recently which certainly adds some protection (& isn't bad on the perforated leather sides either) so seems like am doing the right thing now but more by luck !When it comes to cleaning would you then "feed" the leather or just redo the leather glaze ? Hi thanks for taking the trouble to reply, the seats are balck "valcona" leather, with perforated inserts. They are very pronunced bucket seats so it is very hard to get in & out without damaging them slightly each time. I will continue with the Swissvax & cleaning from time to time with Gliptone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Posted June 18, 2011 Report Share Posted June 18, 2011 Steelwind, what would you recommend for my M3 leather? I've no idea if it has the plastic layer on it or not but I'm keep to keep it all in tip top condition. I've also got extended leather - basically there are bits of cow all over the place. The process as I have read above is to clean it then protect it - but which products would you recommend. Same question to Nathan if he happens to look in here ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Posted June 18, 2011 Report Share Posted June 18, 2011 Actually, reading a thread Biscuits started I see you recommend Auto Ultra - is that still the case? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OGWT Posted June 19, 2011 Report Share Posted June 19, 2011 Leather Coditioning [Fat liquor is not volatile nor migratory, so leather is not going to lose it. However, along with the fat liquor, the other critical factor is moisture. Any leather is going to lose its moisture in a hot car. Although leather seems dry, it is not. Of course too much moisture quickly leads to mould and mildew problems, so soaking it down is not reasonable. Ideally, exposure to humid atmosphere will help balance the effect of over drying on hot days. Leather is very dynamic with respect to moisture content, meaning moisture comes and goes easily under normal circumstances....] American Leather Chemists Association (ALCA) Many leather products market themselves on how they feed or condition leather. In fact most vehicles leather seats are first coated with a very fine emulsion (pigmentation) to give them the desired colour and then a clear urethane coating. So for best longevity you should be keeping that coating clean, hydrated (water will permeate urethane due to its small molecules (as in a water vapour) and as well protected as possible. These same companies would also have you believe you should feed your car's urethane leather finish with olive, cantaloupe, sunflower and coconut oils, lanolin or coat it with wax. These products even if they were necessary cannot permeate the urethane coating pores due to differing molecule sizing, they will only attract dust. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OGWT Posted June 19, 2011 Report Share Posted June 19, 2011 Leather Care CliffNotes® Version Simple cleaning and protection steps that will prolong the life of finished leather. The type of leather upholstery used by 95% of OEM is a multi strata covering over the leather hide; pigmentation (colour) and an abrasion resistant urethane. Finished leather s only requirement is to be kept clean and protected, urethane doesn’t require conditioning An acrylic and polyurethane resin binder system is used to improve flexibility, fastness and adhesion to the leather, then two or three aqueous (water- based) pigmented base coat applications, and then a clear aqueous (water- based) top coat is applied, which usually includes additives to give it a soft feel and abrasion resistance as well as a limited amount of ‘slide’ to assist in entering and exiting the vehicle as the final stage of the finishing process. (a) Clean - as dirt / grit and subsequent friction cause the finish to wear. Use a aqueous (water- based) foam cleaner (Leather Master™ Foam Cleaner) on ventilated seats (b) Hydrated - use aqueous (water- based) products that do not contain oils and/or waxes, check the label if they do then don't use them. Clean surfaces with a damp towel. © Protected - is essential as it will protect the surface finish (Leather Master™ - Protection Cream) as a sacrificial layer and makes dirt easier to clean off and an ultra violet protective product (UVR) will preserve the finish. Leather Master™ - Protection Cream (a Scotchgard™ type product specifically formulated for lather) the polymers penetrate the surface of finished leather and cross-link to form a durable protective film that is breathable and keeps the leather supple. Being aqueous (water- based) it restores moisture to finished leather and provides a protective barrier against every kind of soiling, water, oil, alcohol-based stains and perspiration marks. This is NOT a conditioner per se but is used to improve and maintain the tactile feel and lustre to ensure the leather remains soft and supple; apply Leather Master™ Soft Touch (ex Soft Vital) and allow to dry for approx 20 minutes, finally using a clean dry micro fibre towel buff to a matte sheen. The hides used for automobile upholstery are treated with fat liquor and then sealed at the tannery. The only 'conditioning' required for finished leather upholstery is hydration; oil-based products cannot permeate the finish (urethane pigmentation or covering) that is used in 95% plus of modern automobiles Always keep in mind that you’re dealing with the finished coating on the leather and not with the leather hide itself Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lorin Posted June 23, 2011 Report Share Posted June 23, 2011 Just a quick question.... What are the Auto glym leather products like. I have a new Audi A3 with half leather interior and I have been told the Auto Glym products are good but I was wondering what everyone's thoughts on them were?? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Please sign in to comment
You will be able to leave a comment after signing in
Sign In Now