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polo not starting? Not firing up?


sushDon
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help please only just sorted last prob with thermostat now can't start!? Just had a service so can't believe this> I can turn key it makes the usual sounds but does not ignite or fire up - checked spark plug leads seem OK - NOT sure what else i can check before spending money again?! Please can someone advise? Thanks

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OK, what Reg is the car for a start?

2nd, does the car turn over nice and easily?

3rd, have you removed No1 spark plug and checked for spark? Use rubber gloves, hold plug in rubber handled plyers and earth out the plug against engine or other good meatl component, ie cross member!

Next, assuming petrol in car, is it fitted with electrical of mechanical fuel pump - ie, is fuel being pumped into carb / injection system and hence into engine. Check fuel pump, listen for noises and signs of working or not!

Check the Earth strap to make sure engine is properly earthed!!

There are other things to check but these should rule out the basic issues to start with and may resolve the problem!

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cheers lads!

its a R 98 - 1.6i - think there is a dodgy spark plug lead but if there are 4 - It only uses 1 to ignite which sparks others? - gonna earth and check anyway! Is it only one specific lead No' that ignites? What could be the fuel pump prob? what kind of noises? It actually sounds OK just not starting>>> where is the earch strap located?

thanks

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It won't be the starter motor as you said it makes the usual noises. I doubt its the spark plugs as there are four of them and it's unlikely all four would go. Even with three failed, the car would still try to run of sorts.

Catastrophic failures are usually the simplest to fix. It's either the ignition (high voltage supply to all spark plugs) or the fuel not getting to the engine.

It is likely to be something so simple, it won't be expensive to fix if you call out one of those mobile service people.

Good luck.

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My post about removing Spark Plug No1 was cos this is the first to fire!! You can check to see if you're getting a spark! This will lead you in the direction of where to go next, ie, if spark and a good spark at that then you've got another problem like fueling; no fuel cos the pump is gassed or a blockage etc.

If no spark then you've got an electrical problem and this needs to be traced to source. As you've 4 SPs and all four aren't firing then its not going to be the HT leads to the plugs!

Like Colin says, a problem like yours is eaiser to sort than one of those intermitent problems which are hard to loacte.... be logical and you find out whats wrong!!

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Spark Plug No1 was cos this is the first to fire!!

No it's not! The firing sequence might be 1,3,4,2 or something but it will only be the first to fire if the engine has been stopped with piton number one on it's compression stroke. Four pistons, four strokes, the engine could be in any position. It doesn't matter which plug you look at, a quick spin of the starter will have them all firing in under a couple of seconds. I would remove the master HT lead from the distributor first to elimate the coil.

It's one of those jobs, as I said, will be so simple once someone who knows what they are looking at lifts the bonnet and has a 5 minute poke around.

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Thanks Gav, R32, an colin - Had a poke about last night>> removed main HT lead can get spark form all 4, I can hear the fuel pump come on, so fuse is ok but not seemin to pump fuel around. Gonna get someone to jack-it-up an put direct voltage to pump to see if fuel comes out of pipe in engine. Poss 1) not pumping around>>>

Any poss way to test a blockage?

Nice1 123576-assfeck.gif

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Got the manaul and Ran through checks>>

No display on Digital odometer>>>???????

seems some electrical fault - anyone ever come across this?

1) HT leads - sprayed WD40 checked for breakage - all good!

2) all connections - OK

Deffo fuel not reaching engine to inject - checked distributor cap seems OK - how do i check Carbon brush and rotor arm - would this be poss cause of no start>>?

suicide.gif

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 4 months later...

At the end of your HT leads you have spark plugs, at the other end you have your reddish distributor cap, pull that off and you have your rotor arm approx 2-3inches long, inspect it, if its scored or blackened at all then you should change it, YES it would hinder your car from starting, if its really blackened, it only costs about £3.50

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  • 2 weeks later...

An engine only needs three things to start - fuel, ignition and compression but it needs them at the right times. We can assume that if the cam belt is turning your engine has compression (it was running before), remove the main high tension lead from the distributor cap and place it 1 cm from the bodywork, try to start the engine, do you get a spark?

Get someone to turn on the ignition while you listen near the fuel tank, can you hear a buzzing sound? You should be able to hear the fuel pump run.

Best of luck.

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  • 12 years later...

I checked the connections and the connections all look good after i charged up the battery me and my friend tried to start the car and was getting two clicks from starter motor and the starter motor was getting warm would the starter motor be done for

 

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On ‎18‎/‎05‎/‎2017 at 7:06 PM, Cuprabob said:

- Flat battery

- Bad Connection

- Dodgy Solenoid

- Faulty ignition switch

Still holds true I'm afraid.

You say you have charged the battery, but is it actually any good?

You say the connections "look good" they can look good & still be cr@p, you actually need to get every main 12v and earth lead in the starting/charging circuit off, cleaned, lightly greased with silicone grease/petroleum jelly and re-torqued up correctly.

The solenoid could still be stuffed.

So could the starter but you need to get the no-cost stuff/basics sorted before moving on.

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