HELENMARVELLEY Posted September 22, 2006 Report Share Posted September 22, 2006 hi thanks so much i'll pass this on to my mechanic chappy who has been searching for this for me, i think he thought i would winding him up ha are they very exspensive do you know? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rustynuts Posted September 22, 2006 Report Share Posted September 22, 2006 I couldn't tell you, tbh. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HELENMARVELLEY Posted September 22, 2006 Report Share Posted September 22, 2006 no prob thanks for the help and i'll let you know if it solves my problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nurse_sero Posted October 15, 2006 Report Share Posted October 15, 2006 you dumb fecker. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SamD Posted October 15, 2006 Report Share Posted October 15, 2006 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wobby Posted October 15, 2006 Report Share Posted October 15, 2006 Not quite sure how that fits the conversation !! Good info if your wanting to be a nurse. A bit crap if your needing technical info for your VW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hudster Posted October 15, 2006 Report Share Posted October 15, 2006 thats a random thing to spam a performance car forum with "hmm maybe I'll move to the US and become a nurse..." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pierre Posted May 7, 2007 Report Share Posted May 7, 2007 I hate to be sensible, but can anyone describe in simple language again how to physically check the turbo mechanism? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tobes49 Posted May 7, 2007 Report Share Posted May 7, 2007 [ QUOTE ] I thought the mk 4 tdi didnt have a wastgate thought the pressure was controled by the VNT mechanism controlled by so called n75 valve. that isnt actually called the n75 on the mk4. if its had a new turbo as informed my monies on the MAP sensor. [/ QUOTE ] A VNT turbo boost control system: ECU controls the N75 valve, This N75 takes vacuum from the vacuum pump and uses this to move a Actuator on the turbo, (most people think the actuator is the wastegate) The actuator controls angled plates or a nozzle in the turbo these direct the exhaust gas onto the vain's in the turbo by moving the plates or nozzle it possable to spool the turbo fast then redirects the exhaust gas to stop the turbo over boosting, (beacause the turbo can do this a wastgate is not needed!) When the VNT starts sticking it's the plates/nozzle inside the turbo, But because the actuator is being fed by a powerful vacuum pump it can pull the boost out fully (limp mode) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
happyflyer Posted May 22, 2007 Report Share Posted May 22, 2007 Hi all, Many thanks for all the useful advice on this subject so far, I'm in the same boat at the moment -2001 Bora PD TDI Sport 115 bhp with 170k (usually fairly brisk) motorway miles so hopefully not too many cobwebs. Same deal as above has recently started going into limp after an hour or so of a hard run when boosted uphill or for an overtake, though not as bad as some mentioned above as it does take definite provocation. Initially was worried the blower might be gone but when it works it works more than fine and I am fussy about maintenance it has fresh PD oil and filter every 6-7k or so and sounds like new so I would be convinced into a new blower as an absolute last resort . Obviously I am very reluctant to start chucking money at a garage (even less a VW agent!) for them to tell me the fault code is showing 'CHARGE PRESSURE CONTROL INTERMITTANT FAULT' and then start paying for investigations that could go on and on! £100+ to tell you what is wrong is damn right disgusting from VW I'm so glad I realised what a rip these places are from the age of 13. (Recently witnessed a poor customer with no technical knowledge being told she would have to pay for at least 2 hours of investigative work to see if her 8 year old Polo had been damaged by her driving over a kerb with no obvious faults after the incident!) Anyway, I replaced the air mass sensor as a precaution (before reading this thread I add - but the car does rev and accelerate in a more linear and powerful way when not in limp so I don't regret the investment!) Its probably incidental but I had a new front section exhaust pipe fitted recently (genuine VW part fitted by non genuine VW people) My question really is where and how to start the investigations. From reading the thread it could be anything from a MAP sensor, clogged inlet manifold, VNT actuator etc. As the car is driven at various speeds from 0mph (M1) to 90mph (empty M3 3am) I would be suprised if the VNT mechanism is sticking. How do you go about taking this mechanism off and lubricating/checking it just in case? Do you judge 3/4 inch by looking at a mirror? I followed the vac pipe from the N75 box down to the bowels of the engine with my hand but access is difficult and I couldn't feel how it works. I'm certainly no engineer but it was only after reading the thread that I could rationlise in my mind how a turbo could be voted out of the system as I always thought they were 'inline' and either blew up or worked! I am thinking a reasonable course of action is to remove all vac hoses (having made a diagram of the locations) checking them all for leaks/contamination and then think about replacing N75 box and maybe EGR valve I believe they can be interchanged?). Must admit I am new to all this jargon having been used to maintaining my other car an 89 mk2 golf driver (still mint and going stronger than the Bora!) but I rekon I have worked most of names and locations out. I also saw mention of gunge in the inlet manifold - whats the best way of cleaning inspecting this? Sorry to sound like an amateur but I would rather learn on my feet than pay someone to do it for me! Having understood the potential problems a bit more of 'how to' rather than 'what it is' would be great. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tobes49 Posted May 23, 2007 Report Share Posted May 23, 2007 Going into limp mode should log a fault code like, Boost pressure Positive or negative deviation? As the ECU is reporting a boost control problem I would check/ replace the vacuum hose to and from the N75 Valve and replace the N75 valve if needed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mida11 Posted May 26, 2007 Report Share Posted May 26, 2007 [ QUOTE ] Thanks to RUSTYNUTS and WETCORNFLAKE for posting their advice on the web. Sorted my TDi problem out. Same symptoms as above, runs perfectly well for a ages, then goes into limp mode, which resets with the key. Had fault code reading done which mentioned the pressure difference. Turned out to be a sticking actuator arm on the VNT unit. Bit of a pig to get to, but sorted in about an hour with half a can of WD40 and a sore thumb !! If its as common a problem as it appears to be, how come VW haven't done anything about it ? - imagine going for an overtake, getting alongside the 42 tonner, and then the car goes into limp mode !!! [/ QUOTE ] Hi, Where did You exactly spray the WD40 and what did you exactly do with the actuator arm to get it moving again? Best regards and many thanks, Brock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dawnleitch Posted August 14, 2007 Report Share Posted August 14, 2007 Hello, Having problems with a 51 plate TDI. It broke down last week and turns out the master cylinder in the clutch had gone, AND the fly wheel had disintegrated (not heard that one happening often), Now the turbo isnt kicking in. Garage can't find a problem and say its running 'fine'- rubbish!. Same problems as described by lots of other users in the forum. Last year the Air flow meter was replaced as it was going limp after driving for a while, but would kick back in after restarting the engine - all has been fine with that since then. Now its just limp all the time! Any ideas before I spend a fortune at the VW garage? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rustynuts Posted August 15, 2007 Report Share Posted August 15, 2007 It sounds like a simple fix. I presume the garage have managed to disconnect the vacuum hose to the turbo so the VNT (boost thingy) isn't working. Have a look down the back of the engine (near the bottom of the windscreen) and see if there's a small black hose hanging loose. There'll be a few of them, all controlling different things so don't get 'em mixed up if you pull another one off anywhere. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mantav8 Posted September 2, 2007 Report Share Posted September 2, 2007 Hi all,just came across this post! Trying to sort a prob on a freinds 'S'Reg TDi-found the intercooler split! Thing is I read on here that the MAP sensor is on top of the IC,not on this one!-there's what seems to be one in the IC to manifold pipe,so did these change location at all? Cheers! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rustynuts Posted September 2, 2007 Report Share Posted September 2, 2007 Map sensor is on the pipe, not the intercooler. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mantav8 Posted September 3, 2007 Report Share Posted September 3, 2007 Thanks for that! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
polo_g40 Posted September 3, 2007 Report Share Posted September 3, 2007 I've had a similar experiance. I bought my car recently and the turbo blew up on the journey home!! I had my friend stick his Snap on diagnostic machine into it and it came back with only one fault "Turbo Pressure Control 17964 - P1556" I had to buy a new turbo and for £100 extra i had hybrid work carried out on it. Funnily enough when i took the old turbo out - (Which took me a whole weekend as i've got no mechanical knowledge and no haynes manual!) I found it was a reconditioned one, meaning at 90k miles my car is already on it's 3rd turbo! When i enquired at VW for this replacemt part they didn't know what part it was?! They have informed me it's a toss up between the two valves mounted to the right of the engine on the bulkhead! Great! They told me the part numbers of these said valves were identical bar a letter 'E' at the end of them. Can anyone here offer any advice? Greg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rustynuts Posted September 3, 2007 Report Share Posted September 3, 2007 [ QUOTE ] When i enquired at VW for this replacemt part they didn't know what part it was?! [/ QUOTE ] Which part are you talking about? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
polo_g40 Posted September 4, 2007 Report Share Posted September 4, 2007 Sorry, I meant the Turbo Pressure control switch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johnski Posted September 12, 2007 Report Share Posted September 12, 2007 I have experienced this problem like many others it seems!! I did have the obligatory vag com check done but there was no faults showing up. Took it for a drive with vag com still connected and the turbo appears to be over boosting. So much so in fact the intercooler pipe at the bottom has blown off. The nipple at the metal seal has been damaged and i now have to fork out 49quid for a new pipe!! My question is how can the turbo be overboosting? and surely this fault would show up on vag com? No point in me replacing the pipe only for it too blow off in time? I'm also concerned that the vw dealerships answers to the problem is just replace the turbo? surely you think they would try replacing or fixing the N75 valve first? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daveCh Posted September 17, 2007 Report Share Posted September 17, 2007 hi all, yet again another 1 of these turbo problems. mine is ok apart from uphill with a load in the car then it will limp at 3800 until ignition is turned of and on again! spoke to my mate who woked for vw 1st he said air flow meter. he also said it dont sound like the vnt cos it goes well on a straight road, straight up to 100 on a disused runway with no probs .. it revs round to 4 and further... so my question is could it still be the VNT ??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rustynuts Posted September 17, 2007 Report Share Posted September 17, 2007 Needs to be code read first to be certain, but limp mode can be caused by loads of things. The code will tell you what caused the fault, then go from there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daveCh Posted September 17, 2007 Report Share Posted September 17, 2007 thank you very much for the quick reply. will a seat code machine be ok for the code`s? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rustynuts Posted September 17, 2007 Report Share Posted September 17, 2007 Any generic code reader will do the job as long as it supports OBD2 (on board diagnostics). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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