grahamb Posted December 21, 2005 Report Share Posted December 21, 2005 The bite point on my A6 is almost at the top. The clutch was replaced with a new item in May. How do I adjust the bite point? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Edd_W Posted December 21, 2005 Report Share Posted December 21, 2005 That sounds fine for a recently fitted new drive plate. As the plate wears it requires more pedal travel to push the springs in the pressure plate over centre whihc is the point at which it 'bites' on release. It is an hydraulically operated clutch so there is no adjustment possible. There is some pedal height adjustment I think but this is simply a stop on above the arm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grahamb Posted December 22, 2005 Author Report Share Posted December 22, 2005 Trouble is it doesnt feel right. Any other car I've driven the bite point is midway through the pedal travel. With the A6 I end up revving the engine and lifting and lifting the pedal until eventually it engages. So if I adjust the pedal stop it may reduce the travel so the bite point returns to the midway point? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grahamb Posted December 23, 2005 Author Report Share Posted December 23, 2005 Looking at the ETKA system, the clutch master cylinder has a rod end and a lock nut on the end of the input shaft, so its just a case of cracking the lock nut off, and adjusting the travel. Sorted. So much for hydraulic clutches being non-adjustable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Edd_W Posted December 23, 2005 Report Share Posted December 23, 2005 You can only use the adjustment above the pedal for a small amount of height adjustment. This is to make the brake and clutch pedal level. If you try to screw it down it will cause permanent pressure on the release bearing which is not good. If it is any consolation, I found it took a while to get used to the clutch on my wife's old car 98 A6 2.8 quattro. I think it is more of a combination of things - the throttle flap is damped so it does not shut instantly, this limits the vacuum level and therefore reduces oil drawn past the inlet valve stem seals (to reduce polution and damage to the cats), an engine which seems to have no torque at low revs and a poorly design clutch pedal design. The funny thing is on my 2.7t the problem does not exist and it a very similar car in many ways although it does have a different clutch and electronic throttle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grahamb Posted December 23, 2005 Author Report Share Posted December 23, 2005 There could already be pressure on the bearing, given that the release is already at the top of the pedal travel. Therefore if I loosen the pedal off, it should a) remove any pressure on the bearing, and b) lower the bite point. Nothing to loose. I know what you mean by adapting though. My new 2005 2.2 TDCI Mondeo has so much torque compared to the 2.8, but the 2.8 revs much more freely, and keeps going. The bite point on the Mondy and on any other car I drive is at midway, so it does take some getting used to. I'd prefer it to be the same as the Mondy though, otherwise if theres any additional wear then I'll never get the clutch to fully engage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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