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SneakyMcC
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[ QUOTE ]

Re: no fuel problem HELP PLEASE [Re: kersley] Edit Reply Quote Quick Reply

I tried calling you but no answer; If the AA man did a check on the fuel pump (hopefully he lifted the panel on the boot floor and tried a direct live feed to the terminals of the fuel pump), and says it responeded then it could be either the relay (simple fix), blocked fuel filter (resonably easy fix) or the sender unit and corregated pipes inside the fuel tank (nightmare fix- better to get second hand fuel tank and replace). The last one was my problem even though fuel gauge was registering about 1/2 -1/3 full the car would not start up. Thats because there is a seal on the sender unit that goes bad and or one of the corregated pipes that suck fuel from the corners of the tank split; this then causes air bubbles and fuel starvation. I had my fuel tank replaced.

But for you I would suggest first looking at the level of the fuel gauge is it about 1/2- 1/3 full and not starting if so then you have the same problem as mine and you'll need a new tank including the sender unit which hasn't benn removed from it beacuse the seal is a nightmare to get right.

second replace the fuel pump relay and se if that makes a difference.

third check and replace the fuel filter its in front of the rear passanger wheel inside a flap.

If you need any more help just give us a shout

READ THIS MAY HELP TSN link

Edited by Ska (20/05/06 04:53 PM)

[/ QUOTE ]

Thanks Ska, this is from another thread. Are there additional checks I can do to reconfirm I have the same prob? confused.gif

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1 in 20 start heh?

Sounds like a problem that my Ford galaxy has had (we all know its a VAG machine before you guys say anything), the cause is the relay that runs the ignition electronic a tell tale sign is how hot it got, I'll have a dig and see where its at in the 8 169144-ok.gif

But so far as the tank thing is concerned the only other way is to dismantle the fuel rail (not reccomended- just top her up to 1/2 tank and see what she does)the seal breaks as shown on the pic, this sits on a moulding inside the tank and when it goes bad cant suck fuel into the accumilator (that big orange thing so car stalls at just under 1/3 of a tank and wont start until you top it up passed that seal level 169144-ok.gif

818424-senderunit.JPG

post-5048-137914359458_thumb.jpg

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Oh sorry, then I doubt theres anything wrong with your tank if your regularly using up the fuel to the red then topping her up again.

VAGcom m8 you need to get it diagnosed I'm still looking for that igntion relay though.

And what about the starter inhibitor relay?

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Sneaky, on the ocassions that it won't start, when it does eventually get going how does it sound?... Does it just suddenly start and run normally or does it splutter a bit first?

Any smoke when it gets going?

Is it more or less likely to cut out again when it's struggled to get going or does that happen even when it's started first time?

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[ QUOTE ]

Sneaky, on the ocassions that it won't start, when it does eventually get going how does it sound?... Does it just suddenly start and run normally or does it splutter a bit first?

[/ QUOTE ] It doesn't just catch, it gradually starts to catch. Thats why I thought a feul prob. But that could be the same for it not doing the equivelent of putting on the choke. But it did in ast night too, whilst hot.

[ QUOTE ]

Any smoke when it gets going?

[/ QUOTE ] Nope!...Well I'd better check? (another good TSN thought).

[ QUOTE ]

Is it more or less likely to cut out again when it's struggled to get going or does that happen even when it's started first time?

[/ QUOTE ] If it starts first time, then its fine. When it struggles you still need that extra bit of key cause it feel like it wont run. But yest I gassed it up a bit to see if that got her running....

The car is grossly over due a service (Jan/Feb 06). I have some more money in now, so I better get her serviced.

169144-ok.gif

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in most cases with fuel injected cars when they wont fire up from cold its the coolant temp sensor reading too hot or not at all, without a signal the injection computer go's onto a hot default which will give reasonable fuelling when driving the car once warm!

like any cold engine they need a richer fuel mixture to start but once running will run fine, repeated prolonged attempts to start the engine actually get enough heat in it for it to splutter into life sportifs2.gif

its certainly worth checking this, if you have access to diagnostic equipment you can read the coolant temp & see how far out it is 169144-ok.gif

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i'll help out where i can, 22 years in a main stealers workshop should have taught me something 169144-ok.gif

i'm a new Audi owner after admiring them for a few years now & i'm loving the S8 but my workshop experience is pretty much all Renault based ROLLEY~14.GIF

BUT the good thing is most cars use pretty much the same techology in pretty much the same way & the common faults are usually suffered by all manufacturers as the parts that fail are often shared smashfreakB.gif

the main 3 things that an injection system needs to run an engine are -

crankshaft postion/speed

coolant temperature

manifold pressure/vacuum

obviously there are many more sensors like throttle potentiometers, camshaft sensors etc to determine the exact firing order for sequential injection that provide much more information & enable a far more versatile & accurate fuel map but those 3 are the core elements to pretty much any petrol injection system & without one of those it just aint gonna happen NONO3.GIF

edited for typo ROLLEY~14.GIF

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[ QUOTE ]

the main 3 things that an injection system needs to run an engine are -

crankshaft postion/speed

coolant temperature

manifold pressure/vacuum

obviously there are many more sensors like throttle potentiometers, camshaft sensors etc to determine the exact firing order for sequential injection that provide much more information & enable a far more versatile & accurate fuel map but those 3 are the core elements to pretty much any petrol injection system

[/ QUOTE ]

Yeah I knew that! UHOH7.GIF

grin.gif

I got to the stealers too L8 so was at the back of the line frown.gif Didn't have time to wait that long, plus I didn't want to pay £60 + vat for the pleasure of them reading the memory!! mad.gif

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I spoke to the Bexley Audi about getting the fault memory read. They advised, after a grilling, that it was unlikey faults would be stored on an intermitent fault. Innit funny that a Service Adviser would never tell you that straight off the cuff fekr.gif

So its back to basics.

The tank has been over 1/2 full for a week. We've had no probs.

How do I reset the throttle sensor(?). There seem to be different methods mentioned.

I bought some contact cleaner for the ECU conections. Is there owt else I need to check?

169144-ok.gif

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that sounds more like they can't be bothered to find an intermittant fault ROLLEY~14.GIF

a fault memory is a fault MEMORY, ie it remembers there was a fault, even if it was intermittant!

the latest OBD (On Board Diagnostics) will tell you when & under what conditions any fault occurred but even something that happened once should still be stored ROLLEY~14.GIF

i can't understand why some dealers are so reluctant to diagnose problems suicide.gif

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[ QUOTE ]

the latest OBD (On Board Diagnostics) will tell you when & under what conditions any fault occurred but even something that happened once should still be stored ROLLEY~14.GIF

[/ QUOTE ]

My sh1t aint gonna be the latest of anything frown.gif The car is 10 this year!

[ QUOTE ]

i can't understand why some dealers are so reluctant to diagnose problems suicide.gif

[/ QUOTE ] the stealer was quoting 1hrs lab to read the fault/mem. It was my questioning that brought in the technician who said he doubted the codes stored. To answer your question: which will earn them the most gelt? Wasting an hour @ £93.50 per/hour or a couple hours faffing about? FIREdevil.gif

The motor fired up ok tonight, but then felt like it was only running on 7 pots! frown.gif

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