Farmer Posted May 20, 2008 Report Share Posted May 20, 2008 Hi guys well I have been following your tips and this evening I got all exited and started work on the DIS retrofit having picked up the stalk (thanks vagparts). I have tested the on board coomputer by turning DIS on and off and low and behold there is the washer warning so thats ok. I took the airbag out which was easy then realised I needed an extender bar to get the steering wheel off - DENIED! So all back together until tomorrow eve - my fiance is getting suspicious about what I am up to, can't tell her as she will realise I have spent money on something non wedding related. I am confident I can sort the installation but am still being thick about the washer wire. I thought the sensor was there as there is a black wire thing on the bottle - false hope. How do I access the pin 1 and what does it look like - pictures anyone? If there is a wire in it what is the best way of grounding it out. I don't want to start taking wheels off to get to the bottle! Any help cheerfully recieved sorry for the essay! Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elPaulio Posted May 21, 2008 Report Share Posted May 21, 2008 Hi Jonathan, I feel your pain with buying "non-wedding" related items!! We just got married lately and the run up meant no toys If you're feeling brave you could always quote the amount she spends on Make-up, cleanser, toner and such like that you don't!! Personally, I haven't found anything I want that much to justify the risk When you say extender bar do you mean to reach the nut or to get leverage on the ratchet? As for pin 1, once you have the steering wheel and cowlings off you will see two screws which hold the bottom of the dials in place, take these off and rock the dials towards you from the bottom. Behind it you will find a blue plug, this hold the dreaded Pin1. As Ben was saying if you have a B7 this should have a wire in it in which case a scotchblok jumper connector would be my way of choice to ground the wire! If you have a B6 then you'll need a repair wire from Audi/VW, the code for this is 000-979-009. Cost me £1.23 inc vat. Hope that all helps Paul :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Farmer Posted May 21, 2008 Report Share Posted May 21, 2008 Hi Paul Yes - weddings enough said. The extender bar is so I can reach from my rachet down to the nut - I am hoping it won't be too tight as I never like outting a bar on something. As regards the infamous pin 1 I will try as you recommend and see what we get. Out of interest i spoke with Norwich Audi and asked them what it would cost to fit the stalk and sort out the washer sensor - they were happy to do it for £300 (exl VAT and parts) Thanks but no thanks guys. Wish me luck, well, wish my car luck, it needs it. Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elPaulio Posted May 23, 2008 Report Share Posted May 23, 2008 Hi Jonathan, Well, it was a nice night last night so I got everything ready and set to it! What can I say? It was a piece of p**s! Now, I must admit I found it easy, but then I am an engineer with a degree in Computing and Electronics So it may not be quite so easy for everyone, but it only took me an hour and a half and that was with stopping at each step to take a photo!! Few quick words of advice which will be going in the guide. 1) When removing the footwell trim, watch you don't push the metal trim upwards on the left hand side of the steering wheel. its a bit of a pest to get off! 2) When removing the slip ring, remember that there are three catches PLUS a catch on the plug in the top right hand corner 3) The plug doing into the back of the SCSM is VERY tight and has a catch nearest the steering column. 4) The indicator stalk is attached to the plastic V part so you need to remove the lower screw before that'll come out. 5) Remember to make a mark where your wheel lines up with the column Other than that, it really is quite simple! The VCDS coding is straight forward. Definately recommend taking a full auto-scan prior to starting, this will give you all your current ABS codings etc to refer to when decding what they need changed to!! If you need any help feel free to give me a shout!! Cheers Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Farmer Posted May 23, 2008 Report Share Posted May 23, 2008 Hi Paul So you have a degree in Computing and Electronics - I have one if farming and estate management - so you can see the issues! I like the sound of "the guide" is this a publication coming to a forum soon? I should have less work to do as I already have cruise. Other than the correct Torx screws/bolts did you need any other special kit? Cheers Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elPaulio Posted May 23, 2008 Report Share Posted May 23, 2008 Hi Jonathan, Yeah, hoping to have the guide up and running by the end of next week. I need to get around to doing the screen shot of VCDS as it started raining half way through my install, gotta love the weather!! If you already have cruise then you are laughing. I would say it should take you less than an hour to do. Although, I haven't taken my dials out yet but I guess that's not too difficult. Maybes add half an hour for that part! Where abouts are you btw? If you are anywhere near me I'd be happy to pop round some night and give you a hand. All I used were three different Torx drivers, a flat blade screwdrive, T55 bit for steering wheel, an 8mm socket for the footwell trim and a 10mm socket for the battery. Cheers Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Farmer Posted May 23, 2008 Report Share Posted May 23, 2008 Hello Paul I am in deepest darkest Norfolk in Norwich - a strange and mystical place, more strange than anything and a mystery as to why anyone lives here. I have all the tools I think - a set of Torx bits and sockets - just need to the grounding wire thing - I hope Maplin will have the goods! Should be an interesting weekend of amateur audi breaking. Cheers Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vanduara37 Posted May 24, 2008 Report Share Posted May 24, 2008 When i did the reto-fit the cable i put to ground i left long enough (coiled up) just to the top of the fuse box to allow enough to connect to washer bottle in the future if i get the sensor,save taking the cluster back out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elPaulio Posted May 24, 2008 Report Share Posted May 24, 2008 Hi, Yeah, I think I need to take the cluster out and put my repair wire in. Have checked through the wiring and the B7 with the pin in should run to the lower left A-Pillar wiring conector, but after checking thatI dont ahve the wioring there so I guess I don't have anything in Pin1 in the dials. Jonathan, you'll need a specific Audi repair wire for the Pin 1, Maplins won't cut it I'm afraid!!! Paul :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rapidman123 Posted June 15, 2008 Report Share Posted June 15, 2008 Please can someone shed some light on a really annoying problem I am having? I have replaced the wiper stalk and tried coding with Vagcom 704 but I get the bulb out warning on the dash, the only way to get rid of it is to turn off dis which defeats the object!!!! Please help a newbie...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jase0851 Posted June 17, 2008 Report Share Posted June 17, 2008 Hello PaulI am in deepest darkest Norfolk in Norwich - a strange and mystical place, more strange than anything and a mystery as to why anyone lives here. I have all the tools I think - a set of Torx bits and sockets - just need to the grounding wire thing - I hope Maplin will have the goods! Should be an interesting weekend of amateur audi breaking. Cheers Jonathan jonathan rush from norfork ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
myomu Posted June 29, 2008 Report Share Posted June 29, 2008 Hi AllWas wondering if someone on here could help me. I have just bought a 2003 Audi A4 sport 1.9 TDI and would really like cruise and dis putting it on it. I looked at some dealers and garages but all prices around £500 upwards which i thought was a bit steep. I think i could quite happly fit the parts but i would struggle with the reprogramming. was wondering-: A if anyone could tell me where i could source the parts from besides the dealer and B if theres anyone around wolverhampton - Birmingham that could give me a hand with the reprogramming or could i just take it to an audi dealer and ask them to do it? cheers Joel Hi, I have a coder and trying to code this after just fitting it. However run into problems? errors and abs/esp lights on? I'm willing to let you use it if you can get the coding for it, live in Dudley. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A4Ade Posted July 3, 2008 Report Share Posted July 3, 2008 Just wanted to post a note of thanks to all who have contributed with help/instructions. I performed my dis/cruise retrofit last night and it all went pretty smoothly, in no small part thanks to this thread. 2 minor hurdles, which I will share in case they help others. 1. If, after resetting the abs and performing the steering angle calibration your abs and esp lights don't go off, don't panic and retry the procedure 3 times with no effect and start to poo your pants. Just start to drive the car and the lights will go off almost immediately. 2. After coding the SCSM, make sure you clear it of any fault codes, or else the cruise control might not work. Cheers, Ade Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flakmunky Posted July 19, 2008 Report Share Posted July 19, 2008 (edited) Just to follow up A4Ade's post. I have also just fitted DIS and CC. My SCSM was the Q revision. Everything worked fine. 1) You should wire brush the steering wheel bolt to remove the old blue thread lock stuff. The ELSAWIN workshop manual states that you should use a new bolt, however it is exactly the same part number as that fitted to my old Golf MkV and that could be re-used 5 times (you were supposed to make a mark in it with a punch each time you removed it). 2) When refitting the bolt you should also apply some more Loc-Tite as well, then torque it up to 50nm. 3) If you need to remove the instruments, you will need to remove the small piece of trim at the bottom of the instrument cluster immediately above the piece of fabric. It pulls off towards the back of the car. The two securing screws are behind these. Remove them, then push the cluster out from behind by putting your arm through the hole above the fusebox. 4) On my car, the wire connected to pin 1 was brown/red. You don't need to remove the instrument cluster, you can remove the blue plug from underneath. There is an orange clip which you lift up towards the front of the car. If anyone knows where you can pick this wire up other than here, please let me know as I have the washer bottle sensor on order! It would be better to pick it up elsewhere than behind the instrument cluster... It must go somewhere! 5) When coding it all up, there was several options to go for - I went for DIS with the 2 memory option, not the long-term one. This will give you a short term trip computer that will maintain its memory for approx. 2 hours after the ignition is switched off before resetting and a long term memory. You switch between the 2 with the reset button. I will rescan my car later and post the code I used as I can't remember it off the top of my head. There is also a menu that is accessed by pressing the reset button repeatedly... This allows you to set the clock/date using the wiper stalk, set what details are shown in the trip computer, radio display on/off, etc. No one has really mentioned this so I'm not sure if I have done something new!?! Prolly not!!! I don't know if this is what others have as I haven't seen any one mention it, however A8Techs code isn't the one I used... 6) My keys didn't remotely lock / unlock the car afterwards. Open the car with the key in the drivers door, then press the unlock button on the key. Insert the key, turn the ignition on (don't start the car), then switch it back off, remove the key and press unlock. The key should now work. 7) The one-shot open close of the windows stopped working also, you just need to drop them all manually then lift them again and they will start working properly. EDIT: My car is an 07 B7 A4 with MFSW. Edited July 19, 2008 by Flakmunky Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
a4audi4fun Posted July 19, 2008 Report Share Posted July 19, 2008 A019,14,xx?xx: Driver Information System (DIS) A019,15,0 = DIS A019,16,1 = Highline without DIS A019,17,2 = DIS with Menu Guide A019,18,3 = DIS with Menu Guide and Unit Changing The B7 instrument cluster seems to provide more options. Using "3" you can change between km & miles and fuel consumption in UK mpg, US mpg, l/100km and km/l. On my Canadian car switching the km/miles also changes the display on the odometer (total vehicle mileage). Speed display remains fixed however Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flakmunky Posted July 20, 2008 Report Share Posted July 20, 2008 The coding in Channel 19 of the Instrument cluster controller is 31300. This is for a UK 2007 model with MFSW. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A4Ade Posted July 20, 2008 Report Share Posted July 20, 2008 1) You should wire brush the steering wheel bolt to remove the old blue thread lock stuff. The ELSAWIN workshop manual states that you should use a new bolt, however it is exactly the same part number as that fitted to my old Golf MkV and that could be re-used 5 times (you were supposed to make a mark in it with a punch each time you removed it).2) When refitting the bolt you should also apply some more Loc-Tite as well, then torque it up to 50nm. I must admit, I had read about not re-using this bolt in the Haynes manual, but because no-one else mentioned it I did reuse it. I didn't wire brush / loc-tite it either - is this really essential? Has anyone / everyone else done this? If anyone knows where you can pick this wire up other than here, please let me know as I have the washer bottle sensor on order! It would be better to pick it up elsewhere than behind the instrument cluster... It must go somewhere! From another forum: "It runs down to the lower electrics box in the passengers footwell at the base of the A-Pillar." Mine didn't have a wire so I fitted my own and ran it down to the passenger's footwell. Currently it's still there - I did short the ends together to stop the washer warning but haven't got round to fitting the sensor yet. Ade Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shark_90 Posted July 20, 2008 Report Share Posted July 20, 2008 I took my steering wheel off about 15 times and I never loctited it or any of that rubbish. No problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A4Ade Posted July 21, 2008 Report Share Posted July 21, 2008 I took my steering wheel off about 15 times and I never loctited it or any of that rubbish. No problem. Cheers! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flakmunky Posted July 21, 2008 Report Share Posted July 21, 2008 (edited) I took my steering wheel off about 15 times and I never loctited it or any of that rubbish. No problem. So why does ElsaWin say not to? Other than butt covering I can't think of any reason, either! I reused my bolt, but I did use Loc-Tite and I did torque it to 50 nm... But only because I had Loc-Tite and a torque wrench to hand... Edited July 21, 2008 by Flakmunky Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shark_90 Posted July 21, 2008 Report Share Posted July 21, 2008 So why does ElsaWin say not to? Other than butt covering I can't think of any reason, either! Arse-covering + you call your local friendly parts guy more often = increased business Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alanstead Posted August 6, 2008 Report Share Posted August 6, 2008 Hi guys, just fitted my new DIS stalk and coded it as instructed by your helpful selves, works great, have long term and short term memory, its on a B6 saloon. The only thing I'm not sure about is, before I disconnected the battery to remove the airbag, my old display with the range left in the tank was reading around 500 miles, and once I put everything back together and coded the stalk and got it all working, I have noticed that the range in tank has dropped to 360 miles? Is this anything to worry about? All I have is recoded the steering module with a 4 as the centre number to activate cruise and dis, I already had cruise so this value was a 2 before, then once I had done that I went to channel 19 and worked out the code I needed to activate the the dis and then cleared any fault codes and it all worked. Just slightly concerned about the range in the tank. Any ideas? And thanks for everyones help on this and other forums. Was easier than I expected, especially as I have never used vag com before! Cheers, alan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shark_90 Posted August 6, 2008 Report Share Posted August 6, 2008 The range is calculated from your last x amount of miles driving (not sure how far) or possibly even time, either way all your DIS calculations would have been lost when you removed your battery so it's nothing to worry about Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A4Ade Posted August 7, 2008 Report Share Posted August 7, 2008 If you do find that your DIS mpg is out (after checking it for real when you fill up) then you can recalibrate it. Just divide the DIS mpg by your actual mpg, and x 100. Then, using VAGCOM, select adaptation channel 3 in module 17 (Instruments) - it should have an original value of 100% - and input the new number. For example, say your DIS reads 37.4 MPG, but you work it out to actually be 34.5 MPG: 100 x 37.4/34.5 = 108 Replace the original value of 100 with 108, and you should see the DIS mpg change accordingly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alanstead Posted August 12, 2008 Report Share Posted August 12, 2008 Hi guys, cheers for all the help. Have the DIS working, have changed the values and will see if its more acurate the next time I fill up and if its still a bit out I can easily adjust again thanks. I fitted the washer bottle level sender last nite and have earthed one wire just behind the glove box and have the other one in behind the instrument cluster but am sadly still waiting for the wire to put into the T32 connector to arrive in the post! Its great having my DIS back, my old 98 A4 had it and I really missed it when I got this one. Am at a loss now as to what I'm gonna do to the car now, hope there are some more upgrades I can do. Cheers and thanks for all the help advice in these pages, Alan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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