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Audi 80 TDi Help


chasdrury
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Hi guys

Does anyone know how to clean the MAF sensor on a '94 80 TDi? I think mine may need doing...

Also, I have a diesel leak on the injection pump, I need to re seal it with the Bosch seal kit - does anyone know where I can get this kit from, and has anyone had to do it before?

Cheers

Chaz

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Don't clean the MAF sensor until you have a spare lined up. It can (and probably will) kill it. There's a chance that electrical contact cleaner will do the best job, as it evaporates and doesn't need any mechanical removal. But be careful what type you use as some can affect the plastic housing and dissolve it.

Don't know about the seal kit but a Bosch service centre may be your best bet.

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I doubt it will need doing, John Carter and I did them last November at about 158,000 miles 169144-ok.gif

Mine's still going strong after notching up 40,000 miles since notworthy.gif

208,000 and counting lol.gif

If you have to do it then its quite a straight forward job.

Get some isopropyl alchohol (Maplins).

Disconnect the maff from the air intake (IIRC there are 3/4 screws holding it in place).

You place the whole thing flap side down in a container containing the alcohol (NB keep the electronics and connector out of the solution EEK2.GIF)

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Durr, just re read the initial post. As I remember, the Audi 80 uses a hot wire MAF rather than a hot film, and these used to be self cleaning and very reliable. The way they (mafs ) work is that they run a voltage to heat them up. The airflow across them tries to cool the wire or film, and the ECU registers how much more current is needed to keep the temperature and uses this data to determine how much air is being drawn in.

With the hot wire type, the ECU heats them up with full voltage occasionally to burn off any contamination, so cleaning isn't necessary.

However, if it's a hot film type then my first post is relevant. 169144-ok.gif

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[ QUOTE ]

I doubt it will need doing, John Carter and I did them last November at about 158,000 miles 169144-ok.gif

Mine's still going strong after notching up 40,000 miles since notworthy.gif

208,000 and counting lol.gif

If you have to do it then its quite a straight forward job.

Get some isopropyl alchohol (Maplins).

Disconnect the maff from the air intake (IIRC there are 3/4 screws holding it in place).

You place the whole thing flap side down in a container containing the alcohol (NB keep the electronics and connector out of the solution EEK2.GIF)

[/ QUOTE ]

Thanks Danksy, don't suppose you know anything about resealing the injector pump that is leaking diesel everywhere do you!?

Cheers

Chaz

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When you say leaking diesel everywhere? How big is the leak? It's more likely to be where the fuel lines connect into the injector pump, than the pump itself EEK2.GIF

I don't think the pumps are servicable, so you may need a new one. The knack to runnnig a budget driver is knowing when to ignore a niggle 169144-ok.gif

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No - the diesel is definately coming straight out of the pump! They are serviceable - it seems to be a common problem with the bosch pumps, most people seen to reckon that they need doing when the car is taken out of regular service...

Anyway, seal kit is on its way to me now, will be having a bash at it on the weekend!

Will keep you posted!

Chaz

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I have a guide from an American site, for VW diesel pumps...

I will adapt it for others certainly. Not really sure abou VAG-COM - the guide said you needed to check the timing becuase lots of the Americans had problems starting the cars after they had taken the pump to pieces. There was a lot of hype on the forum about killing your car etc etc. To be honest I think its bull since it took 2 of us less than half an hour and it couldn't really have been any simpler to do...

I don't think VAG-COM is necessary but I borrowed it anyway just in case. I will do a guide though sometime this week. I have ended up with a spare set of seals too if you are interested?

Also today we changed the radiator, header tank, PAS belt, alternator belt, and the oil cooler. The car runs like a dream now. Brilliant!!!

Chaz

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The radiator is not that difficul to do actually..

When you get the radiator out (about half an hour) you have dead easy access to the PAS and alternator belt. About half and hour to chenge that, the longest part is filling and flushing the radiator with cleaner and running up to temperature!

Chaz

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