[Audi A3/S3] Removing panel under steering wheel?

[Frodo]

How do I remove the panel under the steering wheel? I have sussed the right side with the bolts and clips. However, the left side is being a bit more stubborn and I am not sure if it is clips or an additional bolt / screw.

In addition where is the buzz-bar located to pick up the ignition?

Many thanks,

Paul

[alfiejts]

There are three bolts - one behind the fusebox cover and two (one each side) at the bottom edge of the plastic trim.

The left and right top edges then just unclip - But they pull out horizontally backwards, not downwards.

Don't use the bottom edge of the trim to try and lever the top edge out, you have to pull at the top edge itself and try and pull it straight back.

I unclipped the left side by dropping the steering wheel to its lowest adjustment and furthest back.

You can then get your fingers behind the left side of teh trim and pull it out with your hand - but be careful it bites! I did mine a week ago and the chunk it took out of my finger hasn't healed yet!

[Frodo]

Thanks for the info. I'll go in for the attack shortly.

Now I would like to know how to pick-up the ignition feed. I have found a picture of something that would fit the bill but don't know what it is called or where to get them from. It is the fuse connector circled in blue:

[harddrive]

Have a look at the RNS-E Sat Nav guide on the A3 page of my website www.audiretrofit.co.uk as this shows in detail how to remove the panel.

For the ignition feed you can use the connection at the back of the fuse box which goes to the rear wiper, FUSE 35 IIRC. This is 12v switched and looks better than tapping off the fron of the fuse box.

[Frodo]

Managed to get the panel off. Basically just lifted it back into its normal position (important to get the angle right). Then dropped down and pulled the steering wheel forward so I could apply finger pressure where the trims meet and away it came.

That was the easy bit!

I fought with the fuse box most of the aftertoon without much joy. However, I did discover the cables coloured yellow and black are ignition switched. From that I discovered that one block of three fuses are fed from a single blade connector but only two are actually connected. Therefore all I need to do is fix the Parrot 12v Ignition fly-wire into the other side of the existsing connection, put in a fuse and we are done.

How do I find a connector that properly terminates into the fuse box?

Cheers guys

[DukeDesmo]

[ QUOTE ]

How do I find a connector that properly terminates into the fuse box?

[/ QUOTE ]

A standard 6mm blade connector crimp terminal will push into one side of a spare fuse holder (make sure it's the live side!) the good thing about this is that it involves no cutting of anything and so can go back to standard easily but you will need an in-line fuse.

Alternatively you could get a spare fuse and 'modify' it for use as a fused plug ie; cut a groove in the plastic at one side and solder a wire onto it, put it into a spare fuse socket - but make sure it is put in with the wire in the 'dead' side of the fuse holder so that the fuse is 'in-line' with the power otherwise you have no fuse protection.

[alfiejts]

That's exactly the way to do it.

Use a standard 6mm blade connector and push it into the "feed" side of one of the unused fuse positions.

The small fuses are all ignition feed and the large fuses are all permanent live.

Use an in-line fuse in the wire from the blade connector and you're sorted. I think my Parrott kit came with inline fuses anyway, so I just had to crimp on a couple of 6mm spades onto the orange and red ignition & live feeds and just push them in.....