Wobby Posted April 17, 2007 Author Report Share Posted April 17, 2007 Ok, firstly, thanks for the interest its appreciated. The cold start problem was the cold start injector wiring (they wern't working). Once wired up it starts straight up no problem. If part warm and doesn't start within 2 seconds we flick the switch for the cold start injectors and it fires straight up. I'm of the opinion its pinking, but not really sure TBH. I'm no expert on this sort of thing and only had diesels for the last 15 years! The engine revs better with the timing altered. I did try turning on the injectors and it seemed to rev further but it was hard to tell. Its overheating constantly which adds to the problem. On previous petrol cars (going back a lot of years) it was easy to hear pinking. Not sure if its the wind noise or the exhaust noise, but its not as easy to distinguish on this car Understand what your saying about wide open throttle but it will make a differance when your up the revs on wide open throttle and then go to a trailing throttle, it will advance way to far (i think). Either way it seems to have quietened the banging in the exhaust on a trailing throttle. Going to dismantle a spare distributor, wheres best to get the stronger springs from? Do need to reduce total advance, this is based on info from David Vizzards book. Fuel is either normal unleaded (95 RON?) and shell vmax (98 RON?). Have now told my mate we only put shell vmax in so we can get things adjusted right. We will never get it set up right if we chop and change things. Whats your thoughts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tobes49 Posted April 20, 2007 Report Share Posted April 20, 2007 [ QUOTE ] Ok, firstly, thanks for the interest its appreciated. The cold start problem was the cold start injector wiring (they wern't working). Once wired up it starts straight up no problem. If part warm and doesn't start within 2 seconds we flick the switch for the cold start injectors and it fires straight up. I'm of the opinion its pinking, but not really sure TBH. I'm no expert on this sort of thing and only had diesels for the last 15 years! The engine revs better with the timing altered. I did try turning on the injectors and it seemed to rev further but it was hard to tell. Its overheating constantly which adds to the problem. On previous petrol cars (going back a lot of years) it was easy to hear pinking. Not sure if its the wind noise or the exhaust noise, but its not as easy to distinguish on this car Understand what your saying about wide open throttle but it will make a differance when your up the revs on wide open throttle and then go to a trailing throttle, it will advance way to far (i think). Either way it seems to have quietened the banging in the exhaust on a trailing throttle. Going to dismantle a spare distributor, wheres best to get the stronger springs from? Do need to reduce total advance, this is based on info from David Vizzards book. Fuel is either normal unleaded (95 RON?) and shell vmax (98 RON?). Have now told my mate we only put shell vmax in so we can get things adjusted right. We will never get it set up right if we chop and change things. Whats your thoughts? [/ QUOTE ] It sounds like it pinking, Which is why retarding the distributor makes it rev better. 1: Keep putting and only putting 98+ octane fuel in. 2: Remove the spark plugs and post the pictures of the electrode up. 3: Sort the over heating, Over heating can cause pinking. 4: Reduce the overall advance in the distributor then reset the static timing back to standard. Also has the car got a intercooler? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wobby Posted April 20, 2007 Author Report Share Posted April 20, 2007 [ QUOTE ] Also has the car got a intercooler? [/ QUOTE ] Sorry, forgot this question, yes it has an intercooler 1. Will be sticking with RON98 fuel 2. Will be interesting to look at a plug again, they were showing as running hot and probably lean. Will post a pic when we get them out. 3. We are looking for a radiator, a polo mk1 or 2 seems the biggest that will fit in the nosecone. Really isn't much room, i think cooling will always be tricky. Its tight at the front with an intercooler, a normal radiator and an oil cooler. 4. Going to do this with a spare distributor see how we get on, never done one before so expect a few questions This is a pic of the valves on the old head! Westfield forum decided we had 2 cylinders running lean and 2 running normal to slightly rich!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mook Posted April 21, 2007 Report Share Posted April 21, 2007 That comment's right, anyway! Two are running over-lean (the white valves). This implies a possible fuel/air mixture problem, rather than just timing and using the right octane fuel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wobby Posted April 21, 2007 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2007 We have changed the head, the pic is of the head we removed. Would damaged valves cause the mixture to run lean on these 2 cylinders? We had flames shooting into the exhaust of this head (one of the reasons it was changed!). Not had time to strip it down yet though so no definate answers. The exhaust used to glow bright red and huge flames shoot out of joints in the exhaust pipes!! Flame problem was on the end one thats white, and another one that may be the other white one. I have a feeling if the head is removed we wont have the white valves now. The head may well be removed shortly as since the head was changed we are getting an amount of oil through into the coolant. This we never had with the flaming head Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mook Posted April 23, 2007 Report Share Posted April 23, 2007 OMFG - it just gets worse! If you've got oil in the coolant, it's most likely the head gasket. I would have thought that if the valves in the old head were damaged, you would lose compression on two cylinders and it would run like a dog. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wobby Posted April 23, 2007 Author Report Share Posted April 23, 2007 [ QUOTE ] OMFG - it just gets worse! [/ QUOTE ] What you mean, gets worse? Its fantastic!! Just a few things to sort out, but we are getting there. TBH there are plenty of things that havn't added up along the way. Compression was down on 1 cylinder on the old head, but not one with white valves and definately not one with flames! With our other head, no flames, and thats without any additional seal to the joints and no exhaust wrap. pinking is our problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mook Posted April 24, 2007 Report Share Posted April 24, 2007 If it's pinking, then your timing is too far advanced, or there is too much build up of deposits on the head, causing, ahem, premature ignition. I said "ignition"... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wobby Posted April 24, 2007 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2007 Not any build up of deposits, its pinking because its been altered from its original design by people who didn't know any better. It cant run the amount of boost its running with the CR its currently got. I am sure we WILL get there in the end. Yeah yeah, next you'll be telling me my knobs not big enough !! Hang on, are you mrs wobby ?? Like i said to her last night... "20 seconds is more than long enough!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mook Posted April 25, 2007 Report Share Posted April 25, 2007 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wobby Posted June 10, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 10, 2007 Looking at changing to a Megasquirt 3D fueling system. Is this a reasonable move? Quite a bit of work but we are thinking worth it in the end. Just been reading some forum postings about MTech, are these any good? The posts seem to say not! Any other UK suppliers of this system people can recommend? Car is currently running much better, except the alternator melts after each run if you cant get the bonnet off quick enough. We are going through about 1 alternator per hour! Seems reasonable Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tobes49 Posted June 15, 2007 Report Share Posted June 15, 2007 This would be the route I would go down, It will involve quite a lot of work, You will have to fit some sensors, Change the fuel injection system and I would go to a Wasted spark set-up. Once set-up it would make a large difference to power. Cant you just order the self build kit direct for the megasquirt unit? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wobby Posted July 17, 2007 Author Report Share Posted July 17, 2007 Thought we better bring the VW/Kitcar post back to life Been doing some investigation into this megasquirt system, lots of work but well worth it. We were looking to fit this over the winter when we do a full strip down to have the chassis powder coated. The cars back on the road at present, but i think the previous head problem is developing again. Going to strip down old head and investigate. The old head has 2 cylinders running very lean. Now my questions... 1. Is there any sort of control on fuel to each individual injector with k-jetronic? 2. Lambda probes, do these have specific rating etc? Not had anything to do with these, any advice appreciated. This is to be linked to the megasquirt. Apparently megasquirt can be fitted in a weekend! Dont fancy f**king up another head, so may get the parts in early and fit before winter if needed. Power is down, well down, 0-60 takes just under 6.5 seconds. In a 600kg car thats not so good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tobes49 Posted July 17, 2007 Report Share Posted July 17, 2007 [ QUOTE ] Now my questions... 1. Is there any sort of control on fuel to each individual injector with k-jetronic? 2. Lambda probes, do these have specific rating etc? Not had anything to do with these, any advice appreciated. This is to be linked to the megasquirt. [/ QUOTE ] 1, No, (you will need a EFi injection rail + Injectors) 2, There a standard lambda (narrow band) these have a very small window for reading, Come in 1,3,4 wire versions (3,4 wire version have heaters to make them work quicker) Wide band lambda read a much wider range but cost a lot more . I'm not sure the megasquirt is wibeband compatible? (most wide band are 5 wire units) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wobby Posted August 4, 2007 Author Report Share Posted August 4, 2007 Just had an hour on the original (oldest) head and stripped it down. Cant see a great deal of damage, the seal on cylinder 1 inlet valve is poor. Going to grind in all the valves and fit new valve stem seals. Cam bearings seem marked. Whats the easiest way to check the head for distortion? Is a straight edge and feeler blade best way? Not wanting to waste too much money until we get the mega squirt fitted. Guessing the heads are distorting with the heat! Or maybe we are just blowing the head gaskets (only fitted standard ones so far ) Any thought on what to look for would be appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tobes49 Posted August 6, 2007 Report Share Posted August 6, 2007 You will need to have the head skimmed, A aluminium head will distort just unbolting it, It will cost you about 30-35 for a skim. Remember to tell them to remove the least amount to get it to flat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wobby Posted August 7, 2007 Author Report Share Posted August 7, 2007 Thanks Tobes. Will this increase the CR! Going to measure the CR when this head is rebuilt, i have been reading David Vizzards book Seem to have got the misfire again (the replacement head fixed it!?). It comes on around 4000 rpm. I'm blaming this K Jetronic for most of our problems. Switching on the cold start injectors doesn't alter it so maybe its not a fueling issue Bought a crane scavenge cam for this head, this one apparently works well with either supercharged or turbocharged pintos , wont fix anything but it might misfire smoother Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wobby Posted November 10, 2007 Author Report Share Posted November 10, 2007 Quick update on this Westfield. Currently down to a bare chassis to resin coat it. Chassis was very rusty in places. Will be rebuilt from ground up with the suspension adjusted and the ride height increased. K Jet is being replaced with Megasquirt (wasted spark). This is chassis after powder coating and rust has been removed. Any thoughts or advice appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rustynuts Posted November 10, 2007 Report Share Posted November 10, 2007 Can I make a suggestion? Try not standing at a 45deg. angle when you take pictures. It might be arty farty for the people who want to get their names in the high society magazines, but if you want to show something off properly, hold the fecking camera straight, eh? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wobby Posted November 10, 2007 Author Report Share Posted November 10, 2007 I thought that was a good angle as well, took a few pics and picked this one specially for you! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tobes49 Posted November 11, 2007 Report Share Posted November 11, 2007 After it been powder coated if there are any access points into the chassis try filling it with something like waxoyl this will stop the rust from the inside of the chassis. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wobby Posted March 18, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 18, 2008 Another update. Spent many days and way too much money on this car! Now rebuilt with new suspension, suspension bushes, dash, seats, headlights, full new wiring loom. Engine has megasquirt so has a crank VR sensor, modern injectors and fuel rail, TPS etc etc. Started up on Sunday, still needs tuning after MOT. Runs better at idle untuned than it did with K-Jetronic fitted. Hopefully to a few track days in spring and probably broken for the summer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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