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blown it!!


niazS8
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Cheers Nick, beerchug.gif

I totally agree.I think the garage is not capable of carrying out the work to the excact standard and therefore they have put it on a Cat C.

I have asked for an engineers report and asked where the car is stored so I can take a mechanic to have a look.

I then have two options, buy and sell straightaway or buy and do up.

But I am not sure I want to keep it now as I have bought an old Saab 9-5 (sorry guys, but at least it is not a BM or Merc!!) as a cheap runner and now looking for a weekend car possibly Lotus Esprit/Porsche 911/Maserati 3200. smashfreakB.gif

Cheers

niaz....

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Hello Guys.

Good news got the car back today. smlove2.gif

It has been classified as a total loss, Cat C. The reason is 'extensively damaged' but 'uneconimically to repair'

I have decided that I will be not be keeping the car. So I have asked someone to come round next week and tell me how much it will cost to get repaired.

If it very bad news then I could be looking at part ex\selling the car complete (a few enquiries already).

I have attached some better pics, the rear drivers side door does not open but the window and the blind works fine.

My problem is with the rear passenger side wheel/suspension as mentioned previously. There is a bar which has snapped (see pic 4) what is this? what does it do? and is it easy to replace?

Cheers

beerchug.gif

niaz...

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Hi, bare in mind that, the suspencison components are very strong when performing under the design spec, but when they are subjected to loads outside the design window, they are weak and will buckle or even break. Most of the arms / links etc for the suspension are easily available nowadays on ebay for example.

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Sorry Pic 2 is supposed to be pic 4 (as per my previous email) and yes pic 3 is the same as pic 4!

I will try sending some more.

Problem is I took the pics today, but now I have to reduce them to less than 200kb so please bear with me.

niaz..

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[ QUOTE ]

I am not sure, is that the track control arm and does it make a difference to the wheel keeping straight if it has snapped in two?

[/ QUOTE ]

ANy of those components being broke will basically allow the wheel to go where it wants. The most expensive bit there and maybe the dealer only bit (unless get a second hand one) would be the subframe. But thats "unlikely" to break as it would be very strong. The other bits as i said are designed to take either axial loads or radial loads, any "impact" load in the wrong direction and they will fail / break / bend

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looking again at the pic and your photo, i would guess then its the trailing arm broke, Item 3 on my piccy, and yes that would let the wheel move around the track rod in allsorts of directions as its not connected to the bearing housing anymore

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Hi Nick,

It could be item no.3, will have to get my hands dirty and further investigate. suicide.gif

The other car hit my driver side - rear door head on, and with the force , the rear passenger alloy wheel smashed (lower part) into the kerb, obviously taking a fair amount of alloy with it.

However the wheel looked straight and the police officer told me to drive off, which I did. The ride felt very light/woolley and after half a mile I stopped the car and noticed the alloy was buckled badly, I then had to get it towed away.

I agree with you on the costs, the special paint - probably all one side, the parts from Audi, the alloy wheel and yes the huge labour costs (especially with aluminium) makes it very very expensive to fix.

If I am not wrong as my car went to the garage approved by the Insurance company, do the Insurance company not get save loads of money by doing this? The fact the garage have said they can't do it I think the insurance company have done a sly one and give it a Cat C, when I think it should be a Cat D? znaika.gif

Cheers

niaz..

BTW nice pic, I'm gonna print this out and give it to my 20 month oldbaby daughter to play 'dot to dot' smashfreakB.gif

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